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Routes in Midnight Rock

Black Widow T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Curtains T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dagoba System TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Easter Overhang T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Nightingale T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
ROTC T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sometimes a Great Notion T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Stevens Pass Motel T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sting, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Yellow Bird T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 80 ft, Grade II
FA: Fred Becky and ? 1964. Freed by Tom Hargis and Don McPherson, 1972
Page Views: 202 total, 2/month
Shared By: Ken Trout on Jan 26, 2009
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Seasonal Raptor Closure: Noontime and Midnight Rock Details

Description

This route is so good that Fred Becky notes he did it twice on the day it was first done. Start with a cruxy bulge, passed with help from a tricky flake. Then some bolted face climbing up to a roof. Follow the steep crack up right to VW ledge. Rappel or lower from here. It is possible to climb a 5.6 or 5.9 second pitch to the top.

Midnight Rock has long had a reputation as the Cookie Cliff of Washington. While Yosemite's Cookie has lots more to do, it might be fair to say that Yellow Bird is a better 5.10a pitch than can be found at the Cookie.

The first pitch used to be rated 5.9.

Location

This is the first route reached on the dusty approach. The rest of the routes at Midnight require negotiating some exposed class three across Dead End Ledge. I found the Yellow Bird belay zone to be acceptable for a none climber.

Protection

Up to a #2 Camalot. Maybe bring some bigger stuff if planning to bag the "summit".

Photos

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geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
FA- Jim Stuart, David Beckstead, 1963, 5.7 A3, pitons and 4) 1/4" bolts.
FFA- Don McPherson, Tom Hargis, they called it 5.9.
The North Ramp route would be the first that you come to( but the start is an overgrown mossy gully) on the main wall from the approach, Nightingale next then Yellowbird. Feb 20, 2014