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Routes in Midnight Rock

Black Widow T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Curtains T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dagoba System TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Easter Overhang T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Nightingale T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
ROTC T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sometimes a Great Notion T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Stevens Pass Motel T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sting, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Yellow Bird T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Peter Croft, 1984
Page Views: 1,219 total, 16/month
Shared By: Jesse James on Sep 18, 2011
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Seasonal Raptor Closure: Noontime and Midnight Rock Details

Description

Easy climbing leads to a roof at 20 feet (possible 2" piece). After this, challenging moves take you through the roof, and past a short face section protected by 2 bolts to reach the splitter finger crack in a right facing corner. The crack gets harder the higher you go as the pump builds, the crack gets worse, and the angle gets steeper. At the end of the dihedral, I believe the route breaks left, or perhaps the original line goes straight up a seam and then some face moves to reach the belay ledge and bolted anchor (looks hard/scary). It also looks like a nice variation might climb the face holds to the right of the aforementioned seam, but would probably need a few bolts to be added (or maybe someone has already led this as is???). This seems like it would make the best finish, and make a truly outstanding route even better.

Location

This is the obvious splitter crack in a right facing dihedral at the right end of dead end ledge.

Protection

Quickdraws and gear to 1"

The two bolts at the bottom are old buttonheads, and should probably not be trusted. In addition, the first bolt seems to be out of place as you can't reach it until you do some difficult moves over the initial roof. A fall before the first bolt would not be pretty. The best solution is probably to stickclip the bolt from the stance at the roof, or pre-hang a sling on rappell after climbing one of the nearby routes.

Due to the old bolts, and odd bolt placement, I don't think this route sees too many lead attempts. This is a shame since it is probably one of the best crack pitches in the state.

Photos

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Jplotz
Wenatchee, WA
Jplotz   Wenatchee, WA
Tom Michael and I were up there recently and noted the bolt situation has been rectified. Sep 2, 2015
Drewsky  
Those first two bolts could definitely stand to be R&R'd and maybe even relocated as per the above comments. When I tried this climb (6, 7, 8 years ago? Who knows!) I tried to finish via the rightward face variation thinking it wouldn't be too bad. I pumped off about 20 feet out from my last cam (and about 5 feet below the anchor!) and went big! The escape leftward after the crux works and I believe the route may have been finished straight up through the thin seam, although I can't verify that and my attempts to lead it that way were shut down by dirt. In any case, this is a great route. With the initial bolting situation rectified it might get done more, although it's still at Midnight Rock... May 29, 2013