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Routes in Midnight Rock

Black Widow T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Curtains T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dagoba System TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Easter Overhang T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Nightingale T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
ROTC T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sometimes a Great Notion T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Stevens Pass Motel T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sting, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Yellow Bird T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Kjell Swedin, Bob McDougall, 1980
Page Views: 167 total, 4/month
Shared By: geoff georges on Sep 3, 2014
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Seasonal Raptor Closure: Noontime and Midnight Rock Details

Description

An attractive looking thin crack on the wall left of Black Widow. Approached the same way, by the first pitch of the Wild Traverse, a mossy inside corner directly below Black Widow.
I thought this was harder then some 11a cracks I have done, but who knows.

Location

After you make the exposed traverse over from the left end of Dead End ledge you will see 4 bolts on a face (Twilight Zone, 11c), the next corner below chimney.
The approach pitch is 5.9, was able to stem around the moss, small tree and good Lost Arrow pin at belay.

Protection

Mostly small cams and brass nuts. It tops out on VW ledge with a bolted anchor( no chains, ok slings 9/2014) on the far left end. Make sure to extend slings before turning the lip onto the ledge, the rope wants to jam in a 1/2" crack.

Photos

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