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Routes in Midnight Rock

Black Widow T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Curtains T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dagoba System TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Easter Overhang T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Nightingale T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
ROTC T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sometimes a Great Notion T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Stevens Pass Motel T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sting, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Yellow Bird T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: FFA Jim Madsen & Ron Burgner, 1967
Page Views: 751 total · 5/month
Shared By: Vernon Stiefel on Apr 9, 2006
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball

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Seasonal Raptor Closure: Noontime and Midnight Rock Details

Description

The name of a route may be an encapsulation of the type of climbing encountered or emotions evoked during an ascent. While pulling into the wide crack / chimney at the roof and securing myself with a knee bar, thoughts of being devoured by a unseen entity crept into my mind. Because the crack is quite wide this route may be easier to climb in hiking boots with vibram soles.

Location

Begin in a dihedral just around the corner from a bolted face to crack climb (Twilight Zone) on the Dead End Ledge and continue straight up through the overhanging roof that is left of Easter Overhang. Rappel from the ROTC / Stevens Pass Motel anchors back to the Dead End Ledge in two rappels.

Protection

Cams to 5" or Big Bros to supplement the ancient 1/4" bolts with aluminum hangers or steel rings. Cams / medium stoppers are also necessary for an anchor.

Photos

geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
  5.10
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
  5.10
FA- Fred Beckey, Eric Bjornstadt, 1962. They used 6"-10" wood blocks in the OW. The 1/4" bolts are theirs, but someone added bolts also. not sure if fixed pin is theirs. Feb 20, 2014