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Routes in Midnight Rock

Black Widow T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Curtains T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dagoba System TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Easter Overhang T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Nightingale T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
ROTC T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sometimes a Great Notion T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Stevens Pass Motel T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sting, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Yellow Bird T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Fred Beckey, Eric Bjornstad 1964, FFA: Pat Timson, Pete Doorish
Page Views: 86 total, 2/month
Shared By: geoff georges on Dec 9, 2014
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Seasonal Raptor Closure: Noontime and Midnight Rock Details

Description

1st pitch: 11c, thin crack through roof to Volkswagen ledge.The bolts of Yellowbird will be out right where that route skirts the roof. This pitch is dirty, never climbed anymore.
2nd pitch : 5.9, wide cracks left of bolted anchor to the top. This 2nd pitch was very dirty, and I found a rotten block, maybe one of Fred's wood wedges used on the first ascent.
I recently asked Fred what he remembers about this route and Midnight rock. He gave me the forget about it arm wave, "that was 50 years ago, not worth going back to" He was right about it being exactly 50 years ago, but I think it is worth a visit.

Location

when you scramble up the exposed brushy ledges from the main trail after crossing the stream you will come to Dead End ledge. A couple of large Fir/ Ponderosa trees here. A diving board with a big pool of water in front of a narrow overhang where this and Yellowbird starts slightly right. There is a deep mossy gully on the left that could be used to access the North Ramp route on the left slab above.

Protection

standard rack to 3", but a #4 would have been nice on the 2nd pitch. 2 bolt/sling anchor on far left end of Volks ledge. tree anchors at top.

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