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Routes in Mt. Evans - mixed, couloirs

(Shinzo Abe's) Third Arrow T WI4 M5
Bad Finger Couloir, The Steep Snow
Bib (1st Apron), The T M3- Steep Snow
Black and White T WI4-5 M5-6
Concrete Shoes Won't Help Ya In Da River WI4- M4+
Crystal Couloir Steep Snow
Diamond Couloir 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b Steep Snow
Double Dragon (right side) WI3 M3 Mod. Snow
Far Right Dihedral (2nd Apron) T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a M3 Steep Snow
Ghost, The T WI6 M10 R
Goldfinger Couloir Steep Snow PG13
Iration T WI3+ M3-4
Lazy Is As Lazy Does T M5
Mount Evans Micro Goulotte AI4 M3
North Face Crag WI2-3 M3-4 Steep Snow PG13
North Face Snowfield Mod. Snow
Northwest Couloir T WI2
Road Less Warren WI4-5 M5
Road, The WI3 M4
Shooting Star T WI7 M9
Silhouette T WI6+ M9 R
Snave Direct, The T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b WI2-3 M1-2 Steep Snow
Snave, The 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b WI2- Mod. Snow
Snorkmaiden's Surprise WI3 M4 Mod. Snow
Sunrise Couloir T Mod. Snow
Telepherique M1-2 Steep Snow
Tike's Trike T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a WI4 M5+ A3 R
Unsorted Routes:
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Type: Trad, Mixed, Ice, Snow, Alpine, 500 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: Jacek Czyz, solo, June 29, 2009
Page Views: 832 total · 18/month
Shared By: Jacek Czyz on Dec 14, 2014
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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This route was first described as “Alpine Rock” at “Mount Evans, North Face”….

From Summit Lake Bowl, climb south mostly on steep snow, exactly to the base of the main summit of Mount Evans. From here, The Snave takes long traverse left just below lower cliff band. We climbed some sort of small ramp/steps/ledges just below the upper part of The Snave Couloir (first crux WI2-4, M1-5 unless a lot of snow). There is a possible belay above at the old bolt, on left side of the couloir. After crossing main couloir, climb a brilliant, narrow band of snow and ice falling straight from summit block. This runnel began more vertical, more like a narrow chimney. Above a small overhang (2nd crux - 4th, M2), climb 50' of mostly snow to the notch few feet left and below the big, detached summit block.

The lower cliff band (first pitch/crux) was climbed mostly on snow and is listed at 2009/06/23 by Scott Borger + Dennis ? + Jeff Fox. TR.


This is the steep wall just below main summit.


Solid rock. Bring a few stoppers and cams to maximum of 3". Also, it is useful to have 1-2 short screws.


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