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Routes in Mt. Evans - mixed, couloirs

(Shinzo Abe's) Third Arrow T WI4 M5
Bad Finger Couloir, The
Bib (1st Apron), The T M3-
Black and White T WI4-5 M5-6
Concrete Shoes Won't Help Ya In Da River WI4- M4+
Crystal Couloir
Diamond Couloir 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
Double Dragon (right side) WI3 M3
Far Right Dihedral (2nd Apron) T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a M3
Ghost, The T WI6 M10 R
Goldfinger Couloir PG13
Iration T WI3+ M3-4
Lazy Is As Lazy Does T M5
Mount Evans Micro Goulotte AI4 M3
North Face Crag WI2-3 M3-4 PG13
North Face Snowfield
Northwest Couloir T WI2
Road Less Warren WI4-5 M5
Road, The WI3 M4
Shooting Star T WI7 M9
Silhouette T WI6+ M9 R
Snave Direct, The T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b WI2-3 M1-2
Snave, The 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b WI2-
Snorkmaiden's Surprise WI3 M4
Sunrise Couloir T
Telepherique M1-2
Tike's Trike T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a WI4 M5+ A3 R
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 500 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: Jacek Czyz, solo, June 29, 2009
Page Views: 682 total, 19/month
Shared By: Jacek Czyz on Dec 14, 2014
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This route was first described as “Alpine Rock” at “Mount Evans, North Face” http://www.mountainproject.com/v/the-snave-direct/107098522.

From Summit Lake Bowl, climb south mostly on steep snow, exactly to the base of the main summit of Mount Evans. From here, The Snave takes long traverse left just below lower cliff band. We climbed some sort of small ramp/steps/ledges just below the upper part of The Snave Couloir (first crux WI2-4, M1-5 unless a lot of snow). There is a possible belay above at the old bolt, on left side of the couloir. After crossing main couloir, climb a brilliant, narrow band of snow and ice falling straight from summit block. This runnel began more vertical, more like a narrow chimney. Above a small overhang (2nd crux - 4th, M2), climb 50' of mostly snow to the notch few feet left and below the big, detached summit block.

The lower cliff band (first pitch/crux) was climbed mostly on snow and is listed at 2009/06/23 by Scott Borger + Dennis ? + Jeff Fox. TR.

Location

This is the steep wall just below main summit.

Protection

Solid rock. Bring a few stoppers and cams to maximum of 3". Also, it is useful to have 1-2 short screws.

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