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Routes in Mt. Evans - mixed, couloirs

(Shinzo Abe's) Third Arrow T WI4 M5
Bad Finger Couloir, The Steep Snow
Bib (1st Apron), The T M3- Steep Snow
Black and White T WI4-5 M5-6
Concrete Shoes Won't Help Ya In Da River WI4- M4+
Crystal Couloir Steep Snow
Diamond Couloir 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b Steep Snow
Double Dragon (right side) WI3 M3 Mod. Snow
Far Right Dihedral (2nd Apron) T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a M3 Steep Snow
Ghost, The T WI6 M10 R
Goldfinger Couloir Steep Snow PG13
Iration T WI3+ M3-4
Lazy Is As Lazy Does T M5
Mount Evans Micro Goulotte AI4 M3
North Face Crag WI2-3 M3-4 Steep Snow PG13
North Face Snowfield Mod. Snow
Northwest Couloir T WI2
Road Less Warren WI4-5 M5
Road, The WI3 M4
Shooting Star T WI7 M9
Silhouette T WI6+ M9 R
Snave Direct, The T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b WI2-3 M1-2 Steep Snow
Snave, The 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b WI2- Mod. Snow
Snorkmaiden's Surprise WI3 M4 Mod. Snow
Sunrise Couloir T Mod. Snow
Telepherique M1-2 Steep Snow
Tike's Trike T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a WI4 M5+ A3 R
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Ice, Alpine
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,067 total · 11/month
Shared By: ClimbandMine on Mar 1, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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This is the couloir hidden just behind the Third Apron, South and a little West of Summit Lake. A mild half hour hike leads to 600-800 feet of 50 degree snow and a little water ice (in August anyway). A 4th class traverse exits the couloir and a 1/4 mile hike along the ridge gets you to the summit. Descend along the road or in a tourist's car. I don't think the couloir is described in any guidebooks, but it makes a good morning workout before work in the summer.


If you really need a rope, you could use pickets or a light rock rack.


Valdez, AK
Taylor-B.   Valdez, AK
This description sounds more like the couloir between the 2nd and 3rd Apron. The couloir to the climber's right of the 3rd Apron is not that good and consists of chossy third class terrain and doesn't fill in with snow that well down low. Jul 1, 2013

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