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Routes in Mt. Evans - mixed, couloirs

(Shinzo Abe's) Third Arrow T WI4 M5
Bad Finger Couloir, The Steep Snow
Bib (1st Apron), The T M3- Steep Snow
Black and White T WI4-5 M5-6
Concrete Shoes Won't Help Ya In Da River WI4- M4+
Crystal Couloir Steep Snow
Diamond Couloir 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b Steep Snow
Double Dragon (right side) WI3 M3 Mod. Snow
Far Right Dihedral (2nd Apron) T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a M3 Steep Snow
Ghost, The T WI6 M10 R
Goldfinger Couloir Steep Snow PG13
Iration T WI3+ M3-4
Lazy Is As Lazy Does T M5
Mount Evans Micro Goulotte AI4 M3
North Face Crag WI2-3 M3-4 Steep Snow PG13
North Face Snowfield Mod. Snow
Northwest Couloir T WI2
Road Less Warren WI4-5 M5
Road, The WI3 M4
Shooting Star T WI7 M9
Silhouette T WI6+ M9 R
Snave Direct, The T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b WI2-3 M1-2 Steep Snow
Snave, The 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b WI2- Mod. Snow
Snorkmaiden's Surprise WI3 M4 Mod. Snow
Sunrise Couloir T Mod. Snow
Telepherique M1-2 Steep Snow
Tike's Trike T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a WI4 M5+ A3 R
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Type: Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 110 ft
FA: K Gillest & E Lashinsky, 12/2009
Page Views: 1,874 total · 18/month
Shared By: Kevin Gillest on Dec 21, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Climbed straight up middle of lower curtain (in your face), traversed right to column, climbed through small mixed roof to easier ground, rock gear at roof, top out was completely dry with good rock gear. (In November there appears to be more variations possible)

Now that anchor is fixed, it's possible to lower into drainage, no downclimb needed.

Location

This route is located on the left side, above and left of the top out on "The Road" route. Best way to approach would be to climb "The Road" or "Concrete Shoes..." hike towards the saddle/col, look down into 2nd to last drainage before the saddle/col.

Approach: Hike from Echo Lake on the Chicago Lakes trail 5 miles until you reach the first Chicago Lake. Cross the valley/lake and head up to the main rock buttress on Mt. Warren.

Descent: Hike southeast to the saddle/col and descend to the Mt. Evans Road. Take the road back from between mile markers 7 and 8, shortcuts are possible.

Protection

17cm screws and stubbies, light rock rack if climbed in mixed conditions.

Anchor: 6mm cord with quick link for easy descent fixed 15 feet directly above ice.
Kevin Gillest
Arvada, CO
  WI4-5 M5
Kevin Gillest   Arvada, CO
  WI4-5 M5
Route was fairly sublimated, but well bonded. A long approach combined with a short route, better to climb "The Road" Or "Concrete Shoes" first. We climbed "Concrete Shoes" and than got this one on the walk out, both routes in 11 hours, car to car. Dec 21, 2009

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