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Routes in Mt. Evans - mixed, couloirs

(Shinzo Abe's) Third Arrow T WI4 M5
Bad Finger Couloir, The Steep Snow
Bib (1st Apron), The T M3- Steep Snow
Black and White T WI4-5 M5-6
Concrete Shoes Won't Help Ya In Da River WI4- M4+
Crystal Couloir Steep Snow
Diamond Couloir 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b Steep Snow
Double Dragon (right side) WI3 M3 Mod. Snow
Far Right Dihedral (2nd Apron) T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a M3 Steep Snow
Ghost, The T WI6 M10 R
Goldfinger Couloir Steep Snow PG13
Iration T WI3+ M3-4
Lazy Is As Lazy Does T M5
Mount Evans Micro Goulotte AI4 M3
North Face Crag WI2-3 M3-4 Steep Snow PG13
North Face Snowfield Mod. Snow
Northwest Couloir T WI2
Road Less Warren WI4-5 M5
Road, The WI3 M4
Shooting Star T WI7 M9
Silhouette T WI6+ M9 R
Snave Direct, The T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b WI2-3 M1-2 Steep Snow
Snave, The 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b WI2- Mod. Snow
Snorkmaiden's Surprise WI3 M4 Mod. Snow
Sunrise Couloir T Mod. Snow
Telepherique M1-2 Steep Snow
Tike's Trike T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a WI4 M5+ A3 R
Unsorted Routes:
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Type: Mixed, Ice, Snow, Alpine, 900 ft
FA: Perhaps Norie Kizaki & Dave Wolf - May 28, 2011
Page Views: 1,978 total · 22/month
Shared By: DW. on May 30, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Road to 13,000 feet + 20 minute downhill approach + downhill return to car = Off-the-couch alpinism.

From the base, zig-zag through snow interspersed with rock for about 100 feet until the terrain steepens at the start of the gully system proper.

Ascend a short chimney in the right-facing wall to enter the gully, then climb mixed terrain up to a perched block where the gully narrows to a chimney. Tunnel under the block or (better) traverse left and access steep snow under the prominent, right-facing fin. Follow the snow to a belay stance below a beautiful ice smear -- the Snorkmaiden's Surprise!

Tiptoe up the delicate WI3 ice smear for 10 meters and exit onto moderate snow to join the upper gully. Follow the gully to the top encountering another couple of fun mixed bits.

Location

Park at Summit Lake, take the broad trail towards the notch-facing the Tan Buttresses, drop down and left into the cirque. Head down to below the first buttress on the left. You will see a number of gullies heading towards the ridge. Snorkmaiden's Surprise climbs the rightmost gully, one right of Mt. Evans Micro Goulotte, which features a prominent, right-facing fin that forms the upper gully and hides the Snorkmaiden's Surprise. After two pitches, SS and MEMG merge into a moderate snow gully with fun mixed bits to the ridgeline.

Protection

Rock gear, emphasis on small cams and nuts. Knifeblade helpful. A stubby?

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