5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British WI4 M5+ A3 R
Avg: 2 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, Aid, Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 250 ft (76 m), Grade II|
|FA:||Chris Carr and Don Schmidt 9/27/01|
|Page Views:||707 total · 3/month|
|Shared By:||Chris Carr on Sep 26, 2001|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
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The easiest way to approach this climb is to drive to the summit, then rappel straight off the back of the true summit (the one with the USGS pin). The rap and the route, are about 250ft. and end at the obvious snow covered ramp directly below. Once to the ramp, climb straight up your descent line via crack systems with obvious variations and nailing in a few spots. The lower 100ft. have ice runnels that form under the right conditions making for nice mixed climbing. Come to a small ledge to the left of a large roof about 80 feet up, and belay here. Protection at the ledge is obvious. The rock crux comes 50 feet below the summit on a blank, unprotectable section of rock right of the second, larger roof. This section probably could go free, but we used hooks (A3). This is the only section on the route that the potential for a serious fall exists. After this, follow a broken corner system (5.9) to the summit block. The route is named for a rusty, 50's style tricycle that we found at the base of the climb that we hauled up with us. Why someone would toss a tricycle off Mt. Evans is beyond me.... Note: The rock is very loose and rotten in several places and more than once, sizable rocks were dislodged and sent down causing a few close calls. WEAR A HELMET!! Also, this is a true north face and sees no sunlight ever, be prepared for cold, windy belays.
A couple of short screws, full set of cams up to 3.5 inches. Two or three small hooks, full set of nuts, 3-5 knifeblade pins (long), 2-4 angles (small). Also, several 24" runners and a couple double lengths are handy as many places have natural pro options. We placed no permanent pro anywhere on the rout.