Avg: 3 from 5 votes
Routes in Mt. Evans - mixed, couloirs
|(Shinzo Abe's) Third Arrow T WI4 M5|
|Bad Finger Couloir, The|
|Bib (1st Apron), The T M3-|
|Black and White T WI4-5 M5-6|
|Concrete Shoes Won't Help Ya In Da River WI4- M4+|
|Diamond Couloir 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b|
|Double Dragon (right side) WI3 M3|
|Far Right Dihedral (2nd Apron) T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a M3|
|Ghost, The T WI6 M10 R|
|Goldfinger Couloir PG13|
|Iration T WI3+ M3-4|
|Lazy Is As Lazy Does T M5|
|Mount Evans Micro Goulotte AI4 M3|
|North Face Crag WI2-3 M3-4 PG13|
|North Face Snowfield|
|Northwest Couloir T WI2|
|Road Less Warren WI4-5 M5|
|Road, The WI3 M4|
|Shooting Star T WI7 M9|
|Silhouette T WI6+ M9 R|
|Snave Direct, The T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b WI2-3 M1-2|
|Snave, The 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b WI2-|
|Snorkmaiden's Surprise WI3 M4|
|Sunrise Couloir T|
|Tike's Trike T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a WI4 M5+ A3 R|
|Type:||Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 900 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||E. Zale, B Collett, November 2009|
|Page Views:||5,657 total, 57/month|
|Shared By:||Ben Collett on Nov 8, 2009|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionThis route climbs much better than it looks from a distance. In fact, it compares favorably to many of the classic routes in RMNP. It contains a considerable amount of pure ice climbing as well as plenty of properly mixed climbing.
The first hurdle in the gully is a short easy mixed section that exits into a snowy section of the gully.
Pitch two follows a nice section of grade 3 ice to a very narrow ribbon of ice in a corner. Getting established in the corner requires some delicacy. We belayed on a small ledge immediately after getting into the corner. The next pitch was easy but fun low angle ice and mixed terrain. Stop where the rope is no longer warranted. From this point, one can scramble another 250 feet or so to the start of the upper gully.
The upper gully seems sensibly climbed in two pitches. The first ending on a nice ledge to the right of the ice. The second is a short pitch ending at the top of the ice. From here, one can scramble to the top of the buttress.
To get off the route, head up and left to a col in the ridgeline. From here, one can drop down the other side of the ridge to the road and follow that back to Echo Lake.