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Routes in Mt. Evans - mixed, couloirs

(Shinzo Abe's) Third Arrow T WI4 M5
Bad Finger Couloir, The Steep Snow
Bib (1st Apron), The T M3- Steep Snow
Black and White T WI4-5 M5-6
Concrete Shoes Won't Help Ya In Da River WI4- M4+
Crystal Couloir Steep Snow
Diamond Couloir 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b Steep Snow
Double Dragon (right side) WI3 M3 Mod. Snow
Far Right Dihedral (2nd Apron) T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a M3 Steep Snow
Ghost, The T WI6 M10 R
Goldfinger Couloir Steep Snow PG13
Iration T WI3+ M3-4
Lazy Is As Lazy Does T M5
Mount Evans Micro Goulotte AI4 M3
North Face Crag WI2-3 M3-4 Steep Snow PG13
North Face Snowfield Mod. Snow
Northwest Couloir T WI2
Road Less Warren WI4-5 M5
Road, The WI3 M4
Shooting Star T WI7 M9
Silhouette T WI6+ M9 R
Snave Direct, The T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b WI2-3 M1-2 Steep Snow
Snave, The 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b WI2- Mod. Snow
Snorkmaiden's Surprise WI3 M4 Mod. Snow
Sunrise Couloir T Mod. Snow
Telepherique M1-2 Steep Snow
Tike's Trike T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a WI4 M5+ A3 R
Unsorted Routes:
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Type: Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 900 ft
FA: Perhaps P. Tagley, D. Haller, B. Collett, May 2011
Page Views: 1,225 total · 14/month
Shared By: Ben Collett on May 28, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description [Suggest Change]

With a 20 minute downhill approach and a downhill return to the car, alpine grovelling does not get much more civilized than this.

After about 100 feet of snow, there is a first rock step. This is M3ish. Once past this, cruise up snow to the steep chimney. To the right of the chimney, there was a nice, narrow smear of alpine ice. Follow this to turf and a rock belay. Cruise slightly left back into the gully and follow it to the top encountering another couple of fun mixed bits.

Location [Suggest Change]

Park at Summit Lake, take the broad trail towards the notch-facing the Tan Buttresses, drop down and left into the cirque. Head down to below the first buttress on the left. You will see a number of gullies heading towards the ridge. This particular one is towards the right side of the buttress and starts as a pretty parallel-sided gully about 15 feet wide at the bottom. Also, look for a steep chimney in the gully about 200 feet up.

Protection [Suggest Change]

Some rock gear and perhaps a stubby screw or two.

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