Type: Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 900 ft
FA: Perhaps P. Tagley, D. Haller, B. Collett, May 2011
Page Views: 1,261 total · 14/month
Shared By: Ben Collett on May 28, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

With a 20 minute downhill approach and a downhill return to the car, alpine grovelling does not get much more civilized than this.

After about 100 feet of snow, there is a first rock step. This is M3ish. Once past this, cruise up snow to the steep chimney. To the right of the chimney, there was a nice, narrow smear of alpine ice. Follow this to turf and a rock belay. Cruise slightly left back into the gully and follow it to the top encountering another couple of fun mixed bits.

Location

Park at Summit Lake, take the broad trail towards the notch-facing the Tan Buttresses, drop down and left into the cirque. Head down to below the first buttress on the left. You will see a number of gullies heading towards the ridge. This particular one is towards the right side of the buttress and starts as a pretty parallel-sided gully about 15 feet wide at the bottom. Also, look for a steep chimney in the gully about 200 feet up.

Protection

Some rock gear and perhaps a stubby screw or two.

Photos

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