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Routes in Mt. Evans - mixed, couloirs

(Shinzo Abe's) Third Arrow T WI4 M5
Bad Finger Couloir, The Steep Snow
Bib (1st Apron), The T M3- Steep Snow
Black and White T WI4-5 M5-6
Concrete Shoes Won't Help Ya In Da River WI4- M4+
Crystal Couloir Steep Snow
Diamond Couloir 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b Steep Snow
Double Dragon (right side) WI3 M3 Mod. Snow
Far Right Dihedral (2nd Apron) T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a M3 Steep Snow
Ghost, The T WI6 M10 R
Goldfinger Couloir Steep Snow PG13
Iration T WI3+ M3-4
Lazy Is As Lazy Does T M5
Mount Evans Micro Goulotte AI4 M3
North Face Crag WI2-3 M3-4 Steep Snow PG13
North Face Snowfield Mod. Snow
Northwest Couloir T WI2
Road Less Warren WI4-5 M5
Road, The WI3 M4
Shooting Star T WI7 M9
Silhouette T WI6+ M9 R
Snave Direct, The T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b WI2-3 M1-2 Steep Snow
Snave, The 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b WI2- Mod. Snow
Snorkmaiden's Surprise WI3 M4 Mod. Snow
Sunrise Couloir T Mod. Snow
Telepherique M1-2 Steep Snow
Tike's Trike T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a WI4 M5+ A3 R
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 900 ft
FA: Perhaps P. Tagley, D. Haller, B. Collett, May 2011
Page Views: 1,206 total · 15/month
Shared By: Ben Collett on May 28, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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With a 20 minute downhill approach and a downhill return to the car, alpine grovelling does not get much more civilized than this.

After about 100 feet of snow, there is a first rock step. This is M3ish. Once past this, cruise up snow to the steep chimney. To the right of the chimney, there was a nice, narrow smear of alpine ice. Follow this to turf and a rock belay. Cruise slightly left back into the gully and follow it to the top encountering another couple of fun mixed bits.


Park at Summit Lake, take the broad trail towards the notch-facing the Tan Buttresses, drop down and left into the cirque. Head down to below the first buttress on the left. You will see a number of gullies heading towards the ridge. This particular one is towards the right side of the buttress and starts as a pretty parallel-sided gully about 15 feet wide at the bottom. Also, look for a steep chimney in the gully about 200 feet up.


Some rock gear and perhaps a stubby screw or two.



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