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Routes in Mt. Evans - mixed, couloirs

(Shinzo Abe's) Third Arrow T WI4 M5
Bad Finger Couloir, The Steep Snow
Bib (1st Apron), The T M3- Steep Snow
Black and White T WI4-5 M5-6
Concrete Shoes Won't Help Ya In Da River WI4- M4+
Crystal Couloir Steep Snow
Diamond Couloir 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b Steep Snow
Double Dragon (right side) WI3 M3 Mod. Snow
Far Right Dihedral (2nd Apron) T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a M3 Steep Snow
Ghost, The T WI6 M10 R
Goldfinger Couloir Steep Snow PG13
Iration T WI3+ M3-4
Lazy Is As Lazy Does T M5
Mount Evans Micro Goulotte AI4 M3
North Face Crag WI2-3 M3-4 Steep Snow PG13
North Face Snowfield Mod. Snow
Northwest Couloir T WI2
Road Less Warren WI4-5 M5
Road, The WI3 M4
Shooting Star T WI7 M9
Silhouette T WI6+ M9 R
Snave Direct, The T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b WI2-3 M1-2 Steep Snow
Snave, The 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b WI2- Mod. Snow
Snorkmaiden's Surprise WI3 M4 Mod. Snow
Sunrise Couloir T Mod. Snow
Telepherique M1-2 Steep Snow
Tike's Trike T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a WI4 M5+ A3 R
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Type: Trad, Mixed, Snow, Alpine, 750 ft, 4 pitches, Grade III
FA: unknown
Page Views: 475 total · 10/month
Shared By: Taylor-B. on Jun 4, 2014
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description [Edit]

This route is a good long moderate mixed climb for the area, and if it was in RMNP, it would be a classic scrappy mixed climb. The nature of the route varies with conditions. The best season is late May or the first few days of June, the fall can also be good. In the spring, the corners and dihedrals become runnels of ice and snice.

P1. 5.5 M2, 200 feet. Good belay ledges abound.
P2. 5.5 M3, 200 feet.
P3. 5.5 M3, 200 feet. This pitch can be cruiser in good snow conditions or a few scrappy moves at the top. Belay on big terrace.
P4. 5th Class M1. Move climber's left on the big terrace, and climb out through the path of least resistance.

Descent - the couloir between the 2nd and 3rd Apron can be descended with a short rappel at the top and steep snow downclimbing. Or walk down one of the main trails on the ridge.

Protection [Edit]

SR up to BD#3 to 4, a knifeblade pin, and maybe a stubby screw.

Photos

Jonathan Stickel
Golden, CO
 
Jonathan Stickel   Golden, CO
 
This route was OK. If partly melted out, expect a lot of dry rock on the first two pitches. You might even want to bring rock shoes. Jun 7, 2014

More About Far Right Dihedral (2nd Apron)

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