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Routes in Mt. Evans - mixed, couloirs

(Shinzo Abe's) Third Arrow T WI4 M5
Bad Finger Couloir, The Steep Snow
Bib (1st Apron), The T M3- Steep Snow
Black and White T WI4-5 M5-6
Concrete Shoes Won't Help Ya In Da River WI4- M4+
Crystal Couloir Steep Snow
Diamond Couloir 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b Steep Snow
Double Dragon (right side) WI3 M3 Mod. Snow
Far Right Dihedral (2nd Apron) T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a M3 Steep Snow
Ghost, The T WI6 M10 R
Goldfinger Couloir Steep Snow PG13
Iration T WI3+ M3-4
Lazy Is As Lazy Does T M5
Mount Evans Micro Goulotte AI4 M3
North Face Crag WI2-3 M3-4 Steep Snow PG13
North Face Snowfield Mod. Snow
Northwest Couloir T WI2
Road Less Warren WI4-5 M5
Road, The WI3 M4
Shooting Star T WI7 M9
Silhouette T WI6+ M9 R
Snave Direct, The T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b WI2-3 M1-2 Steep Snow
Snave, The 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b WI2- Mod. Snow
Snorkmaiden's Surprise WI3 M4 Mod. Snow
Sunrise Couloir T Mod. Snow
Telepherique M1-2 Steep Snow
Tike's Trike T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a WI4 M5+ A3 R
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Type: Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 600 ft, 4 pitches, Grade III
FA: Dave Wolf and Chris Sheridan
Page Views: 1,337 total · 26/month
Shared By: Chris Sheridan on Aug 23, 2014
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

After two decades of economic stagnation, Shinzo Abe came into office with a plan involving three strategies which he likened to arrows. Each one must be fired successively, and each one must hit its target. Without the final Third Arrow, the whole plan would fail.

The route shares the same first two pitches as Black and White but then stays in the main gully system to finish with a final, climactic WI4 pitch.

Protection

Mixed rack with 5-6 screws.

Photos

If following the path of least resistance in the gully, one can do an easy mixed traverse from the main gully into the runnel above the cave. To do this, look for the ledge on the right wall of the main gully that is about 20-30 feet higher than the cave feature out right. Aug 25, 2014
The steep final ice pitch is longer and harder than it looks from below. Can be WI4+ to WI5 in autumn conditions. Oct 20, 2014
Justin Skaare   CO
 
The belay before the final pitch has my vote for most likely to maim. It's a bowling alley that funnels directly into the obvious belay locations. It may be better to belay lower if you can find some cover. Nov 7, 2016

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