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Routes in Mt. Blue Sky (formerly Mount Evans) - mixed, couloirs
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(Shinzo Abe's) Third Arrow T WI4 M5 |
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Bad Finger Couloir, The Steep Snow |
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Bib (1st Apron), The T M3- Steep Snow |
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Black and White T WI4-5 M5-6 |
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Concrete Shoes Won't Help Ya In Da River WI4- M4+ |
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Crystal Couloir Steep Snow |
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Diamond Couloir 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b Steep Snow |
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Double Dragon (Left) T M2 Mod. Snow |
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Double Dragon (right side) WI3 M3 Mod. Snow |
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Far Right Dihedral (2nd Apron) T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a M3 Steep Snow |
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Ghost, The T WI6 M10 R |
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Goldfinger Couloir Steep Snow PG13 |
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Iration T WI3+ M3-4 |
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Lazy Is As Lazy Does T M5 |
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Mount Evans Micro Goulotte AI4 M3 |
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North Face Crag WI2-3 M3-4 Steep Snow PG13 |
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North Face Snowfield Mod. Snow |
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Northwest Couloir T WI2 |
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Road Less Warren WI4-5 M5 |
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Road, The WI3 M4 |
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Shooting Star T WI7 M9 |
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Silhouette T WI6+ M9 R |
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Snave Direct, The T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b WI2-3 M1-2 Steep Snow |
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Snave, The 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b WI2- Mod. Snow |
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Snorkmaiden's Surprise WI3 M4 Mod. Snow |
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Sunrise Couloir T Mod. Snow |
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Telepherique M1-2 Steep Snow |
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Tike's Trike T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a WI4 M5+ A3 R |
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| Type: | Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 550 ft (167 m), 3 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Perhaps T. Brown and B. Collett, October 2013 |
| Page Views: | 3,574 total · 28/month |
| Shared By: | Ben Collett on Oct 20, 2013 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
This route has it all: steep ice, strenuous drytooling, and fantastic, narrow, icy runnels, all in a wild setting.
1) From the snowfield at the base of the raps, follow the rightmost corner. This starts as a turfy ramp and leads to a huge chockstone cave. Exit this cave on the right side with well-protected strenuous moves and follow the chimney to a spike belay after 160 feet or so, before the chimney steepens again, M5/6.
2) Continue up the steepening icy chimney to a ledgy system and follow icy runnels to the ledge below the prominent ice smear, 200 feet, M4 WI4R.
3) Climb the smear of ice, moving left where it splits. From the top of the thick ice, follow a chimney system through a final roof into an easy exit groove. A belay can be constructed below the final roof if rope drag or lack of gear necessitates it. WI 4/5 M5.
1) From the snowfield at the base of the raps, follow the rightmost corner. This starts as a turfy ramp and leads to a huge chockstone cave. Exit this cave on the right side with well-protected strenuous moves and follow the chimney to a spike belay after 160 feet or so, before the chimney steepens again, M5/6.
2) Continue up the steepening icy chimney to a ledgy system and follow icy runnels to the ledge below the prominent ice smear, 200 feet, M4 WI4R.
3) Climb the smear of ice, moving left where it splits. From the top of the thick ice, follow a chimney system through a final roof into an easy exit groove. A belay can be constructed below the final roof if rope drag or lack of gear necessitates it. WI 4/5 M5.
Location
This route climbs grooves to the right of the Black Wall Gully (the gully on the left side of the Black Wall) to a nice, large, obvious smear. It may well be necessary to approach from Guanella Pass. Expect this to take about two hours. Do the Black Wall raps, and aim for the gully rather than the start of Good Evans.
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