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Routes in Mt. Evans - mixed, couloirs

(Shinzo Abe's) Third Arrow T WI4 M5
Bad Finger Couloir, The Steep Snow
Bib (1st Apron), The T M3- Steep Snow
Black and White T WI4-5 M5-6
Concrete Shoes Won't Help Ya In Da River WI4- M4+
Crystal Couloir Steep Snow
Diamond Couloir 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b Steep Snow
Double Dragon (right side) WI3 M3 Mod. Snow
Far Right Dihedral (2nd Apron) T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a M3 Steep Snow
Ghost, The T WI6 M10 R
Goldfinger Couloir Steep Snow PG13
Iration T WI3+ M3-4
Lazy Is As Lazy Does T M5
Mount Evans Micro Goulotte AI4 M3
North Face Crag WI2-3 M3-4 Steep Snow PG13
North Face Snowfield Mod. Snow
Northwest Couloir T WI2
Road Less Warren WI4-5 M5
Road, The WI3 M4
Shooting Star T WI7 M9
Silhouette T WI6+ M9 R
Snave Direct, The T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b WI2-3 M1-2 Steep Snow
Snave, The 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b WI2- Mod. Snow
Snorkmaiden's Surprise WI3 M4 Mod. Snow
Sunrise Couloir T Mod. Snow
Telepherique M1-2 Steep Snow
Tike's Trike T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a WI4 M5+ A3 R
Unsorted Routes:
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Type: Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 550 ft, 3 pitches, Grade III
FA: Perhaps T. Brown and B. Collett, October 2013
Page Views: 2,433 total · 40/month
Shared By: Ben Collett on Oct 20, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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This route has it all: steep ice, strenuous drytooling, and fantastic, narrow, icy runnels, all in a wild setting.

1) From the snowfield at the base of the raps, follow the rightmost corner. This starts as a turfy ramp and leads to a huge chockstone cave. Exit this cave on the right side with well-protected strenuous moves and follow the chimney to a spike belay after 160 feet or so, before the chimney steepens again, M5/6.

2) Continue up the steepening icy chimney to a ledgy system and follow icy runnels to the ledge below the prominent ice smear, 200 feet, M4 WI4R.

3) Climb the smear of ice, moving left where it splits. From the top of the thick ice, follow a chimney system through a final roof into an easy exit groove. A belay can be constructed below the final roof if rope drag or lack of gear necessitates it. WI 4/5 M5.


This route climbs grooves to the right of the Black Wall Gully (the gully on the left side of the Black Wall) to a nice, large, obvious smear. It may well be necessary to approach from Guanella Pass. Expect this to take about two hours. Do the Black Wall raps, and aim for the gully rather than the start of Good Evans.


Screws, nuts, and a bunch of cams from small to #3 or 4 Camalot.
You can also exit the cave on P1 to the left. Not sure if it's any easier, but at least you can see footholds. Decent pro (that #4 you may have carried for the right exit would prove useful on the left side too). Oct 20, 2014

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