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Routes in Mt. Evans - mixed, couloirs

(Shinzo Abe's) Third Arrow T WI4 M5
Bad Finger Couloir, The Steep Snow
Bib (1st Apron), The T M3- Steep Snow
Black and White T WI4-5 M5-6
Concrete Shoes Won't Help Ya In Da River WI4- M4+
Crystal Couloir Steep Snow
Diamond Couloir 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b Steep Snow
Double Dragon (right side) WI3 M3 Mod. Snow
Far Right Dihedral (2nd Apron) T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a M3 Steep Snow
Ghost, The T WI6 M10 R
Goldfinger Couloir Steep Snow PG13
Iration T WI3+ M3-4
Lazy Is As Lazy Does T M5
Mount Evans Micro Goulotte AI4 M3
North Face Crag WI2-3 M3-4 Steep Snow PG13
North Face Snowfield Mod. Snow
Northwest Couloir T WI2
Road Less Warren WI4-5 M5
Road, The WI3 M4
Shooting Star T WI7 M9
Silhouette T WI6+ M9 R
Snave Direct, The T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b WI2-3 M1-2 Steep Snow
Snave, The 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b WI2- Mod. Snow
Snorkmaiden's Surprise WI3 M4 Mod. Snow
Sunrise Couloir T Mod. Snow
Telepherique M1-2 Steep Snow
Tike's Trike T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a WI4 M5+ A3 R
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Type: Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 165 ft, Grade III
FA: Will Mayo and Ben Collett, 10/11/14
Page Views: 751 total · 16/month
Shared By: Will Mayo on Oct 26, 2014
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Belay on screws and a fixed angle piton on the ice ramp that skirts the Silhouette Buttress. Climb a short ice bulge, pass a fixed bong, move right into a corner below and overhang and a large, wedged block. Surmount the overhang and climb right out an arcing crack with pick torquing techniques past a fixed blade (upward driven), good medium-sized units can be placed here. Round the corner, stem to the icicle (if possible), and climb up into the right-facing corner past a fixed pecker, chimney-ing between the icicle and the rock. Good small units can be placed here. Round the icicle to the right where it pours out of the ceiling, and get into an off-finger crack with a fixed angle (there may be a second icicle coming out of the crack, burying the pin). Decent hooks in the tapers at the bottom of the crack lead to thin hooks on edges and tool-head torques to ascend the crack. It's burly and technical. Head up and slightly right on thin smears of ice and over ledges and quartz riddled horizontal cracks to the top.


Approach by either climbing the first pitch of Silhouette or descend in from the climber's left side of the wall if the lower smears are not in shape. If it's in shape, the ghostly icicle is hard to miss, left of Shooting Star.


Cams from #0 TCU through #2 Camalot (double or triple set of #0.5 and #0.75 Camalots), nuts, and a couple of screws for the belay.



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