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Routes in Mt. Evans - mixed, couloirs

(Shinzo Abe's) Third Arrow T WI4 M5
Bad Finger Couloir, The Steep Snow
Bib (1st Apron), The T M3- Steep Snow
Black and White T WI4-5 M5-6
Concrete Shoes Won't Help Ya In Da River WI4- M4+
Crystal Couloir Steep Snow
Diamond Couloir 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b Steep Snow
Double Dragon (right side) WI3 M3 Mod. Snow
Far Right Dihedral (2nd Apron) T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a M3 Steep Snow
Ghost, The T WI6 M10 R
Goldfinger Couloir Steep Snow PG13
Iration T WI3+ M3-4
Lazy Is As Lazy Does T M5
Mount Evans Micro Goulotte AI4 M3
North Face Crag WI2-3 M3-4 Steep Snow PG13
North Face Snowfield Mod. Snow
Northwest Couloir T WI2
Road Less Warren WI4-5 M5
Road, The WI3 M4
Shooting Star T WI7 M9
Silhouette T WI6+ M9 R
Snave Direct, The T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b WI2-3 M1-2 Steep Snow
Snave, The 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b WI2- Mod. Snow
Snorkmaiden's Surprise WI3 M4 Mod. Snow
Sunrise Couloir T Mod. Snow
Telepherique M1-2 Steep Snow
Tike's Trike T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a WI4 M5+ A3 R
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Type: Snow, Alpine, 500 ft
FA: not known
Page Views: 2,750 total · 20/month
Shared By: Jason Kaplan on Jun 28, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

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This is a really fun couloir.

The crux is the steep roll before everything starts to funnel down into the choke (going down). It's probably at least 15 feet wide at the choke, and once through there is a group of rocks that split the line in the middle. I took the skinny line on lookers left at the bottom. Steepness, this line clocks in at about 50*, and the roll over at the top is usually near vertical if not a overhanging cornice, you can usually sneak in.


Just west of the Black Wall on Mt. Spaulding, there is a main drainage that funnels into this line. It is pretty easy to find, but there is definitely some commitment getting out. We left a car at Echo Lake and went down the Chicago Lakes Basin and up the main trail back to Echo Lake. There was lots of deep snow, willows, water, and bushwhacking.

EDIT: This year we climbed back out via the trail back up to Summit Lake, and it was way less slogging and death marching.


Beacon, shovel, probe, partners. I am not sure what you would use for going up (besides the obvious ice axes and crampons) but could probably use snow pickets or maybe some rock pro as the Black Wall is just to your left.


Jason Kaplan
Glenwood ,Co
  Steep Snow
Jason Kaplan   Glenwood ,Co
  Steep Snow
Does anyone know anything about the line to the looker's right?

It looks way steeper, sustained, and skinnier, probably a great climb and a horrifying ride. It would be something else to get a descent down something like that. Probably 5-10 feet wide is my guess. Jun 28, 2007
Jay, I think that may be Badfinger, it's in Roach's 13er book I believe for Spalding. Jun 29, 2007

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