Type: Snow, Alpine, 500 ft
FA: not known
Page Views: 2,774 total · 20/month
Shared By: Jason Kaplan on Jun 28, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This is a really fun couloir.

The crux is the steep roll before everything starts to funnel down into the choke (going down). It's probably at least 15 feet wide at the choke, and once through there is a group of rocks that split the line in the middle. I took the skinny line on lookers left at the bottom. Steepness, this line clocks in at about 50*, and the roll over at the top is usually near vertical if not a overhanging cornice, you can usually sneak in.

Location

Just west of the Black Wall on Mt. Spaulding, there is a main drainage that funnels into this line. It is pretty easy to find, but there is definitely some commitment getting out. We left a car at Echo Lake and went down the Chicago Lakes Basin and up the main trail back to Echo Lake. There was lots of deep snow, willows, water, and bushwhacking.

EDIT: This year we climbed back out via the trail back up to Summit Lake, and it was way less slogging and death marching.

Protection

Beacon, shovel, probe, partners. I am not sure what you would use for going up (besides the obvious ice axes and crampons) but could probably use snow pickets or maybe some rock pro as the Black Wall is just to your left.

Photos

Jason Kaplan
Glenwood ,Co
  Steep Snow
Jason Kaplan   Glenwood ,Co
  Steep Snow
Does anyone know anything about the line to the looker's right?

It looks way steeper, sustained, and skinnier, probably a great climb and a horrifying ride. It would be something else to get a descent down something like that. Probably 5-10 feet wide is my guess. Jun 28, 2007
Jay, I think that may be Badfinger, it's in Roach's 13er book I believe for Spalding. Jun 29, 2007