Type: Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 250 ft, 2 pitches, Grade III
FA: Will Mayo, Ben Collett, October 2014
Page Views: 1,112 total · 22/month
Shared By: Ben Collett on Oct 3, 2014
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This is the slightly harder and scarier companion piece to Silhouette (with the caveat that this route is rather conditions dependent and more ice would have made it easier).

1) Fight through the rather large roof with good gear, snag some quite thin ice to pull through the lip, and thrutch through to a bit of a rest. From here, a few feet of brutal icy offwidth take you to a chimney with a couple of fixed pins. Follow the chimney to an alcove where thin ice allows a traverse right to a tenuous smear that ends at a commodious belay with good gear below a nice dry chimney, 110 feet.

2) Exit the chimney left to a steep handcrack and follow that to easier ground. Belay at the top of the pitch, M5/6 140 feet.

Location

The route climbs the steep chimney system left of Silhouette. It can be accessed 3 ways. The first and probably best when conditions are appropriate is to climb Monochrome into it. Another alternative is to traverse over from the start of Silhouette. If there is not much ice on the lower part of the face, it makes sense to rap into the base with some shenanigans involved.

Protection

Pins, rock rack to #4 Camalot, and stubby screws.

Photos

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