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Routes in Mt. Evans - mixed, couloirs

(Shinzo Abe's) Third Arrow T WI4 M5
Bad Finger Couloir, The Steep Snow
Bib (1st Apron), The T M3- Steep Snow
Black and White T WI4-5 M5-6
Concrete Shoes Won't Help Ya In Da River WI4- M4+
Crystal Couloir Steep Snow
Diamond Couloir 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b Steep Snow
Double Dragon (right side) WI3 M3 Mod. Snow
Far Right Dihedral (2nd Apron) T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a M3 Steep Snow
Ghost, The T WI6 M10 R
Goldfinger Couloir Steep Snow PG13
Iration T WI3+ M3-4
Lazy Is As Lazy Does T M5
Mount Evans Micro Goulotte AI4 M3
North Face Crag WI2-3 M3-4 Steep Snow PG13
North Face Snowfield Mod. Snow
Northwest Couloir T WI2
Road Less Warren WI4-5 M5
Road, The WI3 M4
Shooting Star T WI7 M9
Silhouette T WI6+ M9 R
Snave Direct, The T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b WI2-3 M1-2 Steep Snow
Snave, The 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b WI2- Mod. Snow
Snorkmaiden's Surprise WI3 M4 Mod. Snow
Sunrise Couloir T Mod. Snow
Telepherique M1-2 Steep Snow
Tike's Trike T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a WI4 M5+ A3 R
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Type: Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 250 ft, 2 pitches, Grade III
FA: Will Mayo, Ben Collett, October 2014
Page Views: 1,061 total · 22/month
Shared By: Ben Collett on Oct 3, 2014
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This is the slightly harder and scarier companion piece to Silhouette (with the caveat that this route is rather conditions dependent and more ice would have made it easier).

1) Fight through the rather large roof with good gear, snag some quite thin ice to pull through the lip, and thrutch through to a bit of a rest. From here, a few feet of brutal icy offwidth take you to a chimney with a couple of fixed pins. Follow the chimney to an alcove where thin ice allows a traverse right to a tenuous smear that ends at a commodious belay with good gear below a nice dry chimney, 110 feet.

2) Exit the chimney left to a steep handcrack and follow that to easier ground. Belay at the top of the pitch, M5/6 140 feet.

Location

The route climbs the steep chimney system left of Silhouette. It can be accessed 3 ways. The first and probably best when conditions are appropriate is to climb Monochrome into it. Another alternative is to traverse over from the start of Silhouette. If there is not much ice on the lower part of the face, it makes sense to rap into the base with some shenanigans involved.

Protection

Pins, rock rack to #4 Camalot, and stubby screws.

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