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Routes in Mt. Evans - mixed, couloirs

(Shinzo Abe's) Third Arrow T WI4 M5
Bad Finger Couloir, The
Bib (1st Apron), The T M3-
Black and White T WI4-5 M5-6
Concrete Shoes Won't Help Ya In Da River WI4- M4+
Crystal Couloir
Diamond Couloir 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
Double Dragon (right side) WI3 M3
Far Right Dihedral (2nd Apron) T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a M3
Ghost, The T WI6 M10 R
Goldfinger Couloir PG13
Iration T WI3+ M3-4
Lazy Is As Lazy Does T M5
Mount Evans Micro Goulotte AI4 M3
North Face Crag WI2-3 M3-4 PG13
North Face Snowfield
Northwest Couloir T WI2
Road Less Warren WI4-5 M5
Road, The WI3 M4
Shooting Star T WI7 M9
Silhouette T WI6+ M9 R
Snave Direct, The T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b WI2-3 M1-2
Snave, The 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b WI2-
Snorkmaiden's Surprise WI3 M4
Sunrise Couloir T
Telepherique M1-2
Tike's Trike T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a WI4 M5+ A3 R
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 480 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Will Mayo, B. Collett, Oct. 2013
Page Views: 3,182 total, 63/month
Shared By: Ben Collett on Oct 30, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Steep, pumpy, wild climbing with multiple free hanging daggers characterizes this route. The FA involved a remarkable onsight performance on the crux pitch from Will.

1) From the end of the raps, climb left into the gut of the gully and up a shield of funky, cauliflower ice to a belay left of the hangers at a fixed pin, 250 feet, WI3.

2) Launch up the overhanging crack system, climbing two wild free hanging daggers and finishing on a steep, thin pillar. After 100 feet, belay in a sheltered alcove with a fixed pin on the left. The rock is generally pretty well-protected, but the ice is a little run out, WI6+ M9 R.

3) Follow the ice to the top, past some thin or incomplete curtains, 130 feet, WI 5+ R.

Location

This route lies on the left wall of the Black Wall Gully. Look for the line of hanging daggers.

Protection

Screws, a single set of cams to #4 Camalot, nuts, and a few pins.
Rob Griz
Frisco
Rob Griz   Frisco
Nice work, boys, stellar line! Nov 11, 2013
Sick!! Oct 31, 2013