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Routes in Mt. Evans - mixed, couloirs

(Shinzo Abe's) Third Arrow T WI4 M5
Bad Finger Couloir, The
Bib (1st Apron), The T M3-
Black and White T WI4-5 M5-6
Concrete Shoes Won't Help Ya In Da River WI4- M4+
Crystal Couloir
Diamond Couloir 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
Double Dragon (right side) WI3 M3
Far Right Dihedral (2nd Apron) T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a M3
Ghost, The T WI6 M10 R
Goldfinger Couloir PG13
Iration T WI3+ M3-4
Lazy Is As Lazy Does T M5
Mount Evans Micro Goulotte AI4 M3
North Face Crag WI2-3 M3-4 PG13
North Face Snowfield
Northwest Couloir T WI2
Road Less Warren WI4-5 M5
Road, The WI3 M4
Shooting Star T WI7 M9
Silhouette T WI6+ M9 R
Snave Direct, The T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b WI2-3 M1-2
Snave, The 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b WI2-
Snorkmaiden's Surprise WI3 M4
Sunrise Couloir T
Telepherique M1-2
Tike's Trike T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a WI4 M5+ A3 R
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Ice, Alpine, 1420 ft, Grade II
FA: ????
Page Views: 3,054 total, 30/month
Shared By: J. Fox on Jun 23, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Looking for a fun and quick ascent of a 14er before work? Then head to Summit Lake on the Mt. Evans road and climb the Snave Couloir. This moderate and short route provides nearly 1,400' of snow climbing on the north face of Mt. Evans and plops you out right at the summit, above the parking lot.

With a car shuttle, you could drive down to Summit Lake and be gone in as little as 2 hours round trip. The route involves moderate snow, to 50 or 55 degrees maybe, and some short steps of water ice in the WI2- range or 4th class rock climbing depending on when you catch the route.

Location

This is on the North face of Mt. Evans above Summit Lake. Hike into the bowl/cirque and head climber's left. The Snave takes the couloir up to the prominent notch just left of the summit.

Ascend the snow fields and gain access to a large ledge/bench system and either come at the Snave from the left (easy) or take one of the other options just below the couloir which might involve some easy ice climbing.

Protection

Crampons, mountaineering axe and maybe one ice tool for the ice sections.
Jacek Czyz
Chicago, Summit CO; PL
Jacek Czyz   Chicago, Summit CO; PL
More difficult var direct to the summit block: Snave Direct: mountainproject.com/v/the-s… Dec 14, 2014
More photos from this trip here:

scottborger.com/gallery.php… Jun 23, 2009
J. Fox
Black Hawk, CO
 
J. Fox   Black Hawk, CO
 
My party and I took the line in the topo photo above. We found some water ice in the WI2- range. The rest of the climb was moderate snow, great, front pointing and solid tool/axe placements. The 4th class rock at the top was a fun finish to the route, but too short! Jun 23, 2009