This route follows the obvious couloir due west of summit lake in the middle of the Evans-Spalding saddle. Hike around the north end of the lake to the bottom of the gully and continue straight up to the top. To continue to the summit of Evans, go left from the top for 3/4 of a mile to the top, or you could take a right for a 1/4 mile or so to Spalding. This route has a large cornice every year which, when it melts out to vertical, is fun to play on if you bring two tools (and get to it before sun-hit), or can be avoided totally by going to the right. Max angle is 50 degrees. The route faces east, so get an early start. Descend by hitching a ride or down the northeast slopes of Evans.