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Routes in Mt. Evans - mixed, couloirs

(Shinzo Abe's) Third Arrow T WI4 M5
Bad Finger Couloir, The Steep Snow
Bib (1st Apron), The T M3- Steep Snow
Black and White T WI4-5 M5-6
Concrete Shoes Won't Help Ya In Da River WI4- M4+
Crystal Couloir Steep Snow
Diamond Couloir 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b Steep Snow
Double Dragon (right side) WI3 M3 Mod. Snow
Far Right Dihedral (2nd Apron) T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a M3 Steep Snow
Ghost, The T WI6 M10 R
Goldfinger Couloir Steep Snow PG13
Iration T WI3+ M3-4
Lazy Is As Lazy Does T M5
Mount Evans Micro Goulotte AI4 M3
North Face Crag WI2-3 M3-4 Steep Snow PG13
North Face Snowfield Mod. Snow
Northwest Couloir T WI2
Road Less Warren WI4-5 M5
Road, The WI3 M4
Shooting Star T WI7 M9
Silhouette T WI6+ M9 R
Snave Direct, The T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b WI2-3 M1-2 Steep Snow
Snave, The 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b WI2- Mod. Snow
Snorkmaiden's Surprise WI3 M4 Mod. Snow
Sunrise Couloir T Mod. Snow
Telepherique M1-2 Steep Snow
Tike's Trike T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a WI4 M5+ A3 R
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Type: Trad, Snow, Alpine, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 498 total · 2/month
Shared By: Chris Carr on Mar 4, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This route follows the obvious couloir due west of summit lake in the middle of the Evans-Spalding saddle. Hike around the north end of the lake to the bottom of the gully and continue straight up to the top. To continue to the summit of Evans, go left from the top for 3/4 of a mile to the top, or you could take a right for a 1/4 mile or so to Spalding. This route has a large cornice every year which, when it melts out to vertical, is fun to play on if you bring two tools (and get to it before sun-hit), or can be avoided totally by going to the right. Max angle is 50 degrees. The route faces east, so get an early start. Descend by hitching a ride or down the northeast slopes of Evans.

Protection

If you chose to use a rope, a couple of pickets or perhaps screws in late summer would be useful.

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