Type: Snow, Alpine, 1000 ft (303 m), 4 pitches
FA: not sure
Page Views: 3,985 total · 25/month
Shared By: Jason Kaplan on Jun 3, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route

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This is a super aesthetic couloir looker's right of Goldfinger. This is a well-known snow climb apparently published in Roach's 13er book, I only know it as a descent however. Going down the crux was getting over the cornice and into the line then crossing the 2 foot deep by 2 foot wide runnel numerous times as the couloir is pretty narrow for its entire length. I am guessing it clocks in around 55 degrees.

Good timing is imperative on this one as too early going down is dangerous, too late you see why the runnel is there and it's scary.


It is West-Northwest of the Goldfinger.


The usual I would imagine, for going down we used a 60m for getting over the cornice, and some webbing and what not for an equalized, double dead man on some big boulders.