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Routes in Mt. Evans - mixed, couloirs

(Shinzo Abe's) Third Arrow T WI4 M5
Bad Finger Couloir, The Steep Snow
Bib (1st Apron), The T M3- Steep Snow
Black and White T WI4-5 M5-6
Concrete Shoes Won't Help Ya In Da River WI4- M4+
Crystal Couloir Steep Snow
Diamond Couloir 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b Steep Snow
Double Dragon (right side) WI3 M3 Mod. Snow
Far Right Dihedral (2nd Apron) T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a M3 Steep Snow
Ghost, The T WI6 M10 R
Goldfinger Couloir Steep Snow PG13
Iration T WI3+ M3-4
Lazy Is As Lazy Does T M5
Mount Evans Micro Goulotte AI4 M3
North Face Crag WI2-3 M3-4 Steep Snow PG13
North Face Snowfield Mod. Snow
Northwest Couloir T WI2
Road Less Warren WI4-5 M5
Road, The WI3 M4
Shooting Star T WI7 M9
Silhouette T WI6+ M9 R
Snave Direct, The T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b WI2-3 M1-2 Steep Snow
Snave, The 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b WI2- Mod. Snow
Snorkmaiden's Surprise WI3 M4 Mod. Snow
Sunrise Couloir T Mod. Snow
Telepherique M1-2 Steep Snow
Tike's Trike T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a WI4 M5+ A3 R
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Type: Snow, Alpine, 1000 ft, 4 pitches
FA: not sure
Page Views: 3,334 total · 27/month
Shared By: Jason Kaplan on Jun 3, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This is a super aesthetic couloir looker's right of Goldfinger. This is a well-known snow climb apparently published in Roach's 13er book, I only know it as a descent however. Going down the crux was getting over the cornice and into the line then crossing the 2 foot deep by 2 foot wide runnel numerous times as the couloir is pretty narrow for its entire length. I am guessing it clocks in around 55 degrees.

Good timing is imperative on this one as too early going down is dangerous, too late you see why the runnel is there and it's scary.

Location

It is West-Northwest of the Goldfinger.

Protection

The usual I would imagine, for going down we used a 60m for getting over the cornice, and some webbing and what not for an equalized, double dead man on some big boulders.
loc
colorado springs co
loc   colorado springs co
Nice line, want to take me there? Jun 3, 2009
Jason Kaplan
Glenwood ,Co
 
Jason Kaplan   Glenwood ,Co
 
Sorry man, there is a voluntary closure in that area the whole time it is in prime condition for riding. Next time we're just going to have to sack up and do it in the winter or early spring befor the closure is in effect. If you or anyone else is interested let me know it will be super hardcore considering the approach and commitment involved. I need a better winter bag for sure before I do that.

Also looking to ride the N. couloir off pacific again but in more winter like conditions next time, I'm thinking around march would be sweet. Always looking for hardcore capable BC ski/board mountaineering partners who are motivated and skilled. Jul 23, 2009

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