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Routes in Mt. Evans - mixed, couloirs

(Shinzo Abe's) Third Arrow T WI4 M5
Bad Finger Couloir, The
Bib (1st Apron), The T M3-
Black and White T WI4-5 M5-6
Concrete Shoes Won't Help Ya In Da River WI4- M4+
Crystal Couloir
Diamond Couloir 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
Double Dragon (right side) WI3 M3
Far Right Dihedral (2nd Apron) T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a M3
Ghost, The T WI6 M10 R
Goldfinger Couloir PG13
Iration T WI3+ M3-4
Lazy Is As Lazy Does T M5
Mount Evans Micro Goulotte AI4 M3
North Face Crag WI2-3 M3-4 PG13
North Face Snowfield
Northwest Couloir T WI2
Road Less Warren WI4-5 M5
Road, The WI3 M4
Shooting Star T WI7 M9
Silhouette T WI6+ M9 R
Snave Direct, The T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b WI2-3 M1-2
Snave, The 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b WI2-
Snorkmaiden's Surprise WI3 M4
Sunrise Couloir T
Telepherique M1-2
Tike's Trike T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a WI4 M5+ A3 R
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 900 ft, 3 pitches, Grade III
FA: Greg Mionske and Roberto Gonzalez-Pita, Dec 5, 2009
Page Views: 3,838 total, 39/month
Shared By: Greg Mionske on Dec 6, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

The route starts at broken rock ledges on the right and then heads up a snow/ice filled corner. Once you reach the icefall (ice crux) on your left, begin to ascend, pull a small roof onto another fall and take the narrow gully to more ice and a big ledge. Walk right on the big ledge to a mixed section. Climb the left crack system (mixed crux) to an easier angle and then proceed upwards on moderate ice. Belay to the left. Climb two ice steps to a steeper fall with an optional rock/ice chimney. Unrope and follow the gully up and right. Then trend left on easy terrain to reach the ridge.

Location

This route is located to the right side of the main rock buttress (far right of The Road route). Hike from Echo Lake up the Chicago Creek trail until you reach the first Chicago Lake. Cross the valley/lake and head up to the main rock buttress. See photos for route topo.

Descent: From the ridge, hike east to the saddle and Mt. Evan's Road. Take the road all the way back (7 miles) or after mile marker 4 follow snowshoe trails back to Echo Lake.

Protection

5 screws & light alpine rock rack.
WadeM
Golden, Co
 
WadeM   Golden, Co
 
Climbed 12/13/14.

All ice on route was super hard and plating but good enough to climb.

Mixed pitch had about 2-4 inches of ice going up the runnels.

Final pitch was really good.

Then 700 ft of bs gully to the top of the ridge.

Hiking out on the road in mtneering boots is demoralizing.

2 star route, with a crappy descent, don't think I'll be back without either stashing a bike or waiting until the road opens. Dec 15, 2014
Kevin Gillest
Arvada, CO
  WI4- M4+
Kevin Gillest   Arvada, CO
  WI4- M4+
Climbed "Concrete Shoes" Sunday Oct. 30th with Carl Pluim:
Pitch 1: Slightly more ice than when we climbed before, WI4- 230ft.
Pitch 2: We climbed 4 cracks over starting from left dihedral, M5 100ft (all cracks were full of moss).
Pitch 3: Slightly less ice than past, also no ice in corner all ice out right, WI3 100ft.

"The Road" conditions, appears to have ice on pitch 1, the upper pitch has ice at the start, but from where we stood, hard to say conditions.

"Road Less Warren" conditions, little to no ice.

Approach: We broke the trail from Idaho Springs Res., but with the 50-70mph gust, probably no trail left. Nov 1, 2011
Kevin Gillest
Arvada, CO
  WI4- M4+
Kevin Gillest   Arvada, CO
  WI4- M4+
Climbed Concrete Shoes 12-20-09, it was a great route. It appears to have less ice now, looking at the FA pictures. Well worth the walk though!

We also put up another route. Walk southeast from the top out of "The Road" look down into one of the last drainages. 110ft WI4-5 M5, "Road Less Warren". It might be a long....walk for such a short route. But combined with on of the others on Warren, a great day out! Dec 21, 2009
Greg Mionske has published a great first-person account of this ascent at Colorado MoJo: coloradomountainjournal.com…. More photos, too. Dec 10, 2009