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Routes in Mt. Evans - mixed, couloirs

(Shinzo Abe's) Third Arrow T WI4 M5
Bad Finger Couloir, The
Bib (1st Apron), The T M3-
Black and White T WI4-5 M5-6
Concrete Shoes Won't Help Ya In Da River WI4- M4+
Crystal Couloir
Diamond Couloir 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
Double Dragon (right side) WI3 M3
Far Right Dihedral (2nd Apron) T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a M3
Ghost, The T WI6 M10 R
Goldfinger Couloir PG13
Iration T WI3+ M3-4
Lazy Is As Lazy Does T M5
Mount Evans Micro Goulotte AI4 M3
North Face Crag WI2-3 M3-4 PG13
North Face Snowfield
Northwest Couloir T WI2
Road Less Warren WI4-5 M5
Road, The WI3 M4
Shooting Star T WI7 M9
Silhouette T WI6+ M9 R
Snave Direct, The T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b WI2-3 M1-2
Snave, The 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b WI2-
Snorkmaiden's Surprise WI3 M4
Sunrise Couloir T
Telepherique M1-2
Tike's Trike T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a WI4 M5+ A3 R
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Alpine, 1420 ft, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 532 total, 13/month
Shared By: Ted Eliason on Jun 4, 2014
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This is a line comparable to Dragon's Tail Couloir in Rocky Mountain National Park. It is super-accessible with a good length from the parking lot of Summit Lake.

Gary Roach describes the Diamond Couloir as "(a) mixed tour (that) provides a sensuous snow slope capped by a rock challenge." The mixed is 4th class and does not require roping up or placing gear.

Climb the steepening snow until it ends below the cliffs. Roach says, "stay East (left) of some steep rock and climb 2 Class 4 pitches to reach Evans' West Ridge just East of Point 14,246." There is some tat hanging from climbers that went right.

This route can be skied from the rim with an inelegant line around the left rock step, which is a Class 4 mixed move. The better line starts at the top of the final rock step.

Location

Climb southwest from the East end of Summit Lake to the Summit Lake bowl. The Diamond is a true couloir, surrounded by rock walls on each side, splitting the North Face to the right of the North Face snowfield and left of the first Apron.

Protection

Cramons and ice axes. Use a rope if you feel more comfortable roping up on Class 4.

Photos

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