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Routes in Mt. Evans - mixed, couloirs

(Shinzo Abe's) Third Arrow T WI4 M5
Bad Finger Couloir, The Steep Snow
Bib (1st Apron), The T M3- Steep Snow
Black and White T WI4-5 M5-6
Concrete Shoes Won't Help Ya In Da River WI4- M4+
Crystal Couloir Steep Snow
Diamond Couloir 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b Steep Snow
Double Dragon (right side) WI3 M3 Mod. Snow
Far Right Dihedral (2nd Apron) T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a M3 Steep Snow
Ghost, The T WI6 M10 R
Goldfinger Couloir Steep Snow PG13
Iration T WI3+ M3-4
Lazy Is As Lazy Does T M5
Mount Evans Micro Goulotte AI4 M3
North Face Crag WI2-3 M3-4 Steep Snow PG13
North Face Snowfield Mod. Snow
Northwest Couloir T WI2
Road Less Warren WI4-5 M5
Road, The WI3 M4
Shooting Star T WI7 M9
Silhouette T WI6+ M9 R
Snave Direct, The T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b WI2-3 M1-2 Steep Snow
Snave, The 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b WI2- Mod. Snow
Snorkmaiden's Surprise WI3 M4 Mod. Snow
Sunrise Couloir T Mod. Snow
Telepherique M1-2 Steep Snow
Tike's Trike T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a WI4 M5+ A3 R
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Type: Trad, Mixed, Alpine, 350 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Perhaps J. Thompson and B. Collett, June 2013
Page Views: 834 total · 13/month
Shared By: Ben Collett on Jun 9, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This route is perfect for people who love the Ouray Ice Park - the approach is not too taxing.

1) Wander up snowy and icy corner, climbing under the flake to a nice ledge. Climb easy rock towards the depression up and left of the the top of that system, belaying on the right side of the main gully system. 130 feet, M3.

2) Climb the gully system, hopefully encountering great neve, past a wee chockstone (optional and probably sensible belay) around 100 feet. Pass an old bail sling, and continue up the intimidating looking wide crack in the back of the corner (there are some great thin cracks that take great pick placements on the right wall). A brief respite leads to a fantastic hand crack with more good pick placements on the right wall, followed by more standard blocky scrapping to the top. 240 feet, M5.

Location

Just left of the upper couloir of The Snave, there is a little tongue of snow heading up into an icy dihedral capped by a flake one can tunnel under. This is the start. The lazy approach is to drive to the summit parking lot, wander up the trail to the wee notch below the summit and follow the diagonal snow band down to the northeast to below the route. It should take all of 10 minutes at a leisurely pace.

Protection

This route protects well with rock gear to #3 Camalot. It might be nice to have doubles.

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