Type: Trad, Mixed, Alpine, 350 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Perhaps J. Thompson and B. Collett, June 2013
Page Views: 856 total · 13/month
Shared By: Ben Collett on Jun 9, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This route is perfect for people who love the Ouray Ice Park - the approach is not too taxing.

1) Wander up snowy and icy corner, climbing under the flake to a nice ledge. Climb easy rock towards the depression up and left of the the top of that system, belaying on the right side of the main gully system. 130 feet, M3.

2) Climb the gully system, hopefully encountering great neve, past a wee chockstone (optional and probably sensible belay) around 100 feet. Pass an old bail sling, and continue up the intimidating looking wide crack in the back of the corner (there are some great thin cracks that take great pick placements on the right wall). A brief respite leads to a fantastic hand crack with more good pick placements on the right wall, followed by more standard blocky scrapping to the top. 240 feet, M5.

Location

Just left of the upper couloir of The Snave, there is a little tongue of snow heading up into an icy dihedral capped by a flake one can tunnel under. This is the start. The lazy approach is to drive to the summit parking lot, wander up the trail to the wee notch below the summit and follow the diagonal snow band down to the northeast to below the route. It should take all of 10 minutes at a leisurely pace.

Protection

This route protects well with rock gear to #3 Camalot. It might be nice to have doubles.

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