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Routes in Black Arches Wall

Adirondack Rehabilitation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Amnesia Chasm T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Amphitheatre Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Birthday Corner T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Black Arch ArĂȘte T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Broken Broom T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Carpenter & Das T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cranium T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Critical Crimps T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Crossway T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Dexter's Dugout T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Drive T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
E-stim T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Eatin' Tripe and Lichen It T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Four Ounces to Freedom S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Full Recovery T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Gun Show T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hang Time T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Here I Go Again T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Impulse Drive T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Intensive Care T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Lane Change T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Outpatient T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Parallel Passage T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pinch an Inch T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Plumb Line T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Post Op T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Recuperation Boulevard T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Reducto Adductor T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Renegade T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Scaredy Cat T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Second Job T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Side Show T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Sleepy Hollow T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Suicidal Sydney T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Tilly's Trench T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Torcher T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tribulations T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Type: Trad, 125 ft
FA: March 24, 2012 Jamie McNeill
Page Views: 568 total, 9/month
Shared By: Jay Harrison on Nov 6, 2012
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


6 Opinions

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Description

Begin by climbing up the corner to a rail leading right. Take this to a stance on the right side of a rock pillar. Go up the right-facing corner to its end, using stoppers and runners to protect. A difficult move (5.10a) through the overhang leads to a long stretch of technical face climbing, including a crux sequence (bolt-protected) past a blank section. Above the first crux, trend up and right to a stance below the bulging face. Work back left, around a corner (10a) to another stance below an overhang. Climb up the seam and technical face, passing one more bolt, to a good horizontal crack, then climb easy slab up and right to the anchors of Black Arch Arete.

Location

Begin in the open book between the Tripe Buttress and the Black Arch Arete Buttress. This lies below the Patio. Look for the ugly, tree-choked corner 15' right of Eatin' Tripe and Lichen It.

Protection

Small to medium cams, a few full-length runners, small to medium stoppers, and at least ten QDs.
The pro is generally good, but some of the bolts are difficult to clip if you are short, a few trad placements require strategic use of long runners, and there is some runout 5.6 territory.
70m ropes barely make it to the ground off the top anchors (use same anchors as Black Arch Arete).

Photos

Jon Clark
Philadelphia, PA
  5.11c
Jon Clark   Philadelphia, PA
  5.11c
At 5'6" I'll second that a number of the clips are reachy. That aside, this is a great route with numerous cruxes. Oct 14, 2014