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Routes in Black Arches Wall
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Adirondack Rehabilitation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Amnesia Chasm T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Amphitheatre Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Birthday Corner T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Black Arch Arête T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Broken Broom T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Carpenter & Das T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Cranium T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Critical Crimps T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Crossway T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Dexter's Dugout T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Drive T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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E-stim T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Eatin' Tripe and Lichen It T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Four Ounces to Freedom S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Full Recovery T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Gun Show T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Hang Time T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Here I Go Again T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Impulse Drive T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13 |
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Intensive Care T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Lane Change T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Outpatient T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Parallel Passage T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Pinch an Inch T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Plumb Line T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Post Op T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Recuperation Boulevard T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Reducto Adductor T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Renegade T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13 |
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Scaredy Cat T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Second Job T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Side Show T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Sleepy Hollow T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Suicidal Sydney T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Tilly's Trench T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Torcher T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Tribulations T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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| Type: | Trad, 125 ft (38 m) |
| FA: | March 24, 2012 Jamie McNeill |
| Page Views: | 1,379 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Jay Harrison on Nov 6, 2012 |
| Admins: | Morgan Patterson, Kevin MudRat MacKenzie, Jim Lawyer |
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Description
Begin by climbing up the corner to a rail leading right. Take this to a stance on the right side of a rock pillar. Go up the right-facing corner to its end, using stoppers and runners to protect. A difficult move (5.10a) through the overhang leads to a long stretch of technical face climbing, including a crux sequence (bolt-protected) past a blank section. Above the first crux, trend up and right to a stance below the bulging face. Work back left, around a corner (10a) to another stance below an overhang. Climb up the seam and technical face, passing one more bolt, to a good horizontal crack, then climb easy slab up and right to the anchors of Black Arch Arete.
Location
Begin in the open book between the Tripe Buttress and the Black Arch Arete Buttress. This lies below the Patio. Look for the ugly, tree-choked corner 15' right of Eatin' Tripe and Lichen It.
Protection
Small to medium cams, a few full-length runners, small to medium stoppers, and at least ten QDs.
The pro is generally good, but some of the bolts are difficult to clip if you are short, a few trad placements require strategic use of long runners, and there is some runout 5.6 territory.
70m ropes barely make it to the ground off the top anchors (use same anchors as Black Arch Arete).
The pro is generally good, but some of the bolts are difficult to clip if you are short, a few trad placements require strategic use of long runners, and there is some runout 5.6 territory.
70m ropes barely make it to the ground off the top anchors (use same anchors as Black Arch Arete).
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