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Routes in Black Arches Wall

Adirondack Rehabilitation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Amnesia Chasm T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Amphitheatre Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Birthday Corner T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Black Arch ArĂȘte T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Broken Broom T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Carpenter & Das T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cranium T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Critical Crimps T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Crossway T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Dexter's Dugout T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Drive T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
E-stim T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Eatin' Tripe and Lichen It T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Four Ounces to Freedom S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Full Recovery T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Gun Show T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hang Time T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Here I Go Again T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Impulse Drive T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Intensive Care T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Lane Change T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Outpatient T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Parallel Passage T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pinch an Inch T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Plumb Line T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Post Op T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Recuperation Boulevard T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Reducto Adductor T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Renegade T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Scaredy Cat T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Second Job T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Side Show T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Sleepy Hollow T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Suicidal Sydney T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Tilly's Trench T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Torcher T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tribulations T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Type: Trad, 30 ft
FA: June 17, 2010
Page Views: 596 total, 7/month
Shared By: Jay Harrison on Jun 28, 2010
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


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Description

This is a strenuous, short layback with a few crimpy moves. Good forearm torch.
The second pitch is about 5.7. It isn't usually climbed, but if parties want to TR Black Arch ArĂȘte, the leader can climb this, traverse right, then drop down to the anchors. The second will have to negotiate the same terrain, or pull gear, lower back to the ledge, and walk down around. For those who do this, a 70m rope is required.

P1 30': Climb the vertical crack to the top. Recommend stepping to the right around the small birch at the top.

P2 30': Climb the layback crack on the face left of the anchors.

NOTE: This route lies directly in the bomb zone of ice falling from High & Dry. As such, early season ascents are not recommended. Wait for the ice above to completely fall off before climbing here.

Location

In the Amphitheatre, which lies between the Isobuttress and the Eatin' Tripe & Lichen It buttress. This route is 20' right of Tribulations' start, the obvious vertical crack.
Descent: Either rappel on questionable fixed anchors or downclimb the short start of Tribulations, or finish climbing that latter route to the top and walk off (climber's) left to reach the Diagonal Ramp.

Protection

Small to medium cams, small to medium stoppers.

Photos

Jay Harrison  
 
You are correct: a good stopper can be placed before committing to that first hinky move, at least by a 5'5" leader with a -2 Ape Factor! And I know it can be placed well enough to hold at least 2 falls.
One thing to be careful of is protecting the belayer. The only stance underneath is *directly* underneath. Placing the belay in the bushes uphill or on the rock 8' away works, but then the belayer should be anchored. Sep 18, 2012
kenr  
The first low crux is not just forearm strength, also tricky to make the feet stick. So it's worth taking some time on placing protection before trying the move. I didn't lead it, but here's what I remember from removing the protection:
Hidden inside the upper section of the flary crack is a pocket that takes a cam (? small-medium ?). Then with a long partly-blind reach, my leader placed a stopper (? medium-large ?) higher up - (which then held two falls). I'd guess you do not actually have to be tall to place the high stopper before making the move, but shorter climbers might have to make the crux move without reaching that placement first. Aug 26, 2012