Avg: 2.8 from 9 votes
Routes in Black Arches Wall
|Adirondack Rehabilitation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R|
|Amnesia Chasm T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c|
|Amphitheatre Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Birthday Corner T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b|
|Black Arch Arête T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13|
|Broken Broom T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Carpenter & Das T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Cranium T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13|
|Critical Crimps T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Crossway T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Dexter's Dugout T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Drive T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|E-stim T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Eatin' Tripe and Lichen It T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Four Ounces to Freedom S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b|
|Full Recovery T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Gun Show T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Hang Time T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13|
|Here I Go Again T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Impulse Drive T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13|
|Intensive Care T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R|
|Lane Change T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Outpatient T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13|
|Parallel Passage T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Pinch an Inch T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R|
|Plumb Line T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Post Op T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Recuperation Boulevard T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Reducto Adductor T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13|
|Renegade T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13|
|Scaredy Cat T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13|
|Second Job T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Side Show T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b|
|Sleepy Hollow T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Suicidal Sydney T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c|
|Tilly's Trench T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a|
|Torcher T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Tribulations T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a|
|Type:||Trad, 30 ft|
|FA:||June 17, 2010|
|Page Views:||596 total, 7/month|
|Shared By:||Jay Harrison on Jun 28, 2010|
DescriptionThis is a strenuous, short layback with a few crimpy moves. Good forearm torch.
The second pitch is about 5.7. It isn't usually climbed, but if parties want to TR Black Arch Arête, the leader can climb this, traverse right, then drop down to the anchors. The second will have to negotiate the same terrain, or pull gear, lower back to the ledge, and walk down around. For those who do this, a 70m rope is required.
P1 30': Climb the vertical crack to the top. Recommend stepping to the right around the small birch at the top.
P2 30': Climb the layback crack on the face left of the anchors.
NOTE: This route lies directly in the bomb zone of ice falling from High & Dry. As such, early season ascents are not recommended. Wait for the ice above to completely fall off before climbing here.
LocationIn the Amphitheatre, which lies between the Isobuttress and the Eatin' Tripe & Lichen It buttress. This route is 20' right of Tribulations' start, the obvious vertical crack.
Descent: Either rappel on questionable fixed anchors or downclimb the short start of Tribulations, or finish climbing that latter route to the top and walk off (climber's) left to reach the Diagonal Ramp.