Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Black Arches Wall

Adirondack Rehabilitation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Amnesia Chasm T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Amphitheatre Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Birthday Corner T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Black Arch ArĂȘte T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Broken Broom T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Carpenter & Das T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cranium T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Critical Crimps T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Crossway T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Dexter's Dugout T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Drive T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
E-stim T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Eatin' Tripe and Lichen It T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Four Ounces to Freedom S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Full Recovery T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Gun Show T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hang Time T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Here I Go Again T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Impulse Drive T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Intensive Care T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Lane Change T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Outpatient T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Parallel Passage T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pinch an Inch T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Plumb Line T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Post Op T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Recuperation Boulevard T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Reducto Adductor T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Renegade T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Scaredy Cat T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Second Job T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Side Show T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Sleepy Hollow T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Suicidal Sydney T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Tilly's Trench T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Torcher T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tribulations T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Type: Trad, 140 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Jay Harrison & Ben Brooke 19th May 2012
Page Views: 79 total, 1/month
Shared By: Jay Harrison on May 22, 2012
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


0 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Cleaned up, P2 will be an excellent addition to the options here, though it might better be accessed via a climb more in line with that finish rather than the lower pitch utilized for the first ascent.
The first pitch is a composite of several routes/variations previously climbed; the final pitch breaks through the obvious notch directly above the right-facing corner.
P1: A bouldery move reaches the ledge. Walk right onto the slab of Recuperation Boulevard, using its second bolt for your first pro. Follow RB through the niche to a horizontal crack running right and take this feature right to a left-facing corner (this is the 5.8 variation to RB). Climb the corner to its top and traverse right to an oak tree on a ledge (top of Lane Change).
P2: Climb the large right-facing corner and up the steep headwall, passing the overhang at its top (very committing move) to the right. Either work back up left and traverse to the anchors or walk up and right to the ledge at the top of Post Op.

Location

Same start as Intensive Care: at a tiny left-facing corner at head height 4' right of the rock lying against the face (which marks the start of Carpenter & Das).
Descend via rappel from trees, walk-off up and left to the Diagonal Ramp, or accessing the rappel anchors to climber's left.

Protection

Standard Trad rack. The first pitch is a stepped traverse up and right, so use good rope managment skills.

Photos

Benjaminadk
San Pedro, California
5.8+
Benjaminadk   San Pedro, California
5.8+
Cleaned up the second pitch will be awesome. I would advise wearing a helmet(which i didn't). I head butted the ceiling a couple times before committing right at the top of the corner. That move is definitly a thrill. Edit. I should clean that second pitch at some pt. linking with estim or another right end climb would make sense too. May 24, 2012