Type: Trad, 100 ft (30 m)
FA: Ben Brooke and Gillian Herbert
Page Views: 2,182 total · 22/month
Shared By: Benjamin Brooke on Aug 19, 2012
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


7 Opinions

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Sleepy Hollow

Climb the initial right facing corner on juggy flakes and some jams. Pull out of the corner onto a ledge with a handcrack in a left facing corner. Layback (or jam if you're mike gray) the crack to a stance below another large right facing corner. Work up this corner to an overhang with a bombay chimney on its left side. (V1) Traverse to the right side of the overhang and find a jug. Get in whatever pro u can find (small cams/tricams) Move up and work back left on a horizontal incut rail (crux) towards the chimney and pull the overhang on more jugs to bolt anchors.

Brand new 2 bolt cold shut anchor at the top(8/20/12) A 60 meter rope will work to rap/lower.

Keep an eye out for hidden holds.

V1 - Finish directly up the bombay chimney to the anchors. Slightly more challenging, but less exposed, finish. 5.9

Start

15' right and slightly uphill from Black Arch Arete on the "Patio" ledge. Locate a large corner system with a crack that varies from hands to chimney size at the top of the cliff. There is a small overhang about 8 feet off the deck.

Protection - This climb eats it up!

A full rack. Doubles of .5 - 3 (BD C4), set of small cams, tri-cams, nuts. Wider gear not necessary.

Photos