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Routes in Black Arches Wall

Adirondack Rehabilitation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Amnesia Chasm T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Amphitheatre Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Birthday Corner T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Black Arch ArĂȘte T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Broken Broom T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Carpenter & Das T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cranium T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Critical Crimps T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Crossway T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Dexter's Dugout T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Drive T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
E-stim T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Eatin' Tripe and Lichen It T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Four Ounces to Freedom S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Full Recovery T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Gun Show T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hang Time T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Here I Go Again T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Impulse Drive T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Intensive Care T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Lane Change T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Outpatient T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Parallel Passage T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pinch an Inch T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Plumb Line T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Post Op T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Recuperation Boulevard T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Reducto Adductor T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Renegade T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Scaredy Cat T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Second Job T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Side Show T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Sleepy Hollow T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Suicidal Sydney T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Tilly's Trench T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Torcher T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tribulations T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Ben Brooke and Gillian Herbert
Page Views: 1,662 total, 26/month
Shared By: Benjaminadk on Aug 19, 2012
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


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Sleepy Hollow

Climb the initial right facing corner on juggy flakes and some jams. Pull out of the corner onto a ledge with a handcrack in a left facing corner. Layback (or jam if you're mike gray) the crack to a stance below another large right facing corner. Work up this corner to an overhang with a bombay chimney on its left side. (V1) Traverse to the right side of the overhang and find a jug. Get in whatever pro u can find (small cams/tricams) Move up and work back left on a horizontal incut rail (crux) towards the chimney and pull the overhang on more jugs to bolt anchors.

Brand new 2 bolt cold shut anchor at the top(8/20/12) A 60 meter rope will work to rap/lower.

Keep an eye out for hidden holds.

V1 - Finish directly up the bombay chimney to the anchors. Slightly more challenging, but less exposed, finish. 5.9

Start

15' right and slightly uphill from Black Arch Arete on the "Patio" ledge. Locate a large corner system with a crack that varies from hands to chimney size at the top of the cliff. There is a small overhang about 8 feet off the deck.

Protection - This climb eats it up!

A full rack. Doubles of .5 - 3 (BD C4), set of small cams, tri-cams, nuts. Wider gear not necessary.

Photos

worth russell
Brooklyn, NY
 
worth russell   Brooklyn, NY
 
Good route with a killer top out. Havent done the 5.9 variation but the 8 finish is a blast. Good work cr ane mtn crew Mar 19, 2013
Another vote for 8+ for the right-hand finish. Impressive line with lots of thoughtful moves from the bottom to the very last. Sep 3, 2012
Michael John Gray
Queensbury, NY
 
Michael John Gray   Queensbury, NY
 
Did the 5.9 direct variation. This climb is amazing and a lot of fun with great exposure. The direct finish is exciting and interesting to figure out the gear and the moves. Nice Aug 25, 2012
Jay Harrison  
 
Fantastic Route, a "must-do" line. Nice going, Ben!
Direct finish is 5.9, I would tag the original finish at 5.8+; it is a bit easier but way more exposed and committing. Radical finish to an awesome line. Aug 22, 2012