All Locations > New York > Adirondacks > Indian Lake Region > Crane Mountain > Black Arches Wall

Sleepy Hollow

Name: Sleepy Hollow
Rating: 3.3

5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British

Routes in Black Arches Wall

L › R R › L A › Z

	Adirondack Rehabilitation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
	Amnesia Chasm T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
	Amphitheatre Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Birthday Corner T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
	Black Arch Arête T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
	Black Arches Wall \| 8704 T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
	Broken Broom T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Carpenter & Das T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Cranium T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
	Critical Crimps T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Crossway T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Dexter's Dugout T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Drive T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	E-stim T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Eatin' Tripe and Lichen It T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Four Ounces to Freedom S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	Full Recovery T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Gun Show T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Hang Time T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
	Here I Go Again T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Impulse Drive T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
	Intensive Care T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
	Lane Change T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Outpatient T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
	Parallel Passage T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Pinch an Inch T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
	Plumb Line T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Post Op T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Recuperation Boulevard T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Reducto Adductor T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
	Renegade T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
	Scaredy Cat T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
	Second Job T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Side Show T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
	Sleepy Hollow T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Tilly's Trench T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
	Torcher T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Tribulations T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

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Type:	Trad, 100 ft (30 m)
GPS:	43.5431, -73.95414
FA:	Ben Brooke and Gillian Herbert
Page Views:	2,901 total · 17/month
Shared By:	Benjamin Brooke on Aug 19, 2012
Admins:	Morgan Patterson, Kevin MudRat MacKenzie, Jim Lawyer Page Updates (admin only)

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Explore this route in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Sleepy Hollow

Climb the initial right facing corner on juggy flakes and some jams. Pull out of the corner onto a ledge with a handcrack in a left facing corner. Layback (or jam if you're mike gray) the crack to a stance below another large right facing corner. Work up this corner to an overhang with a bombay chimney on its left side. (V1) Traverse to the right side of the overhang and find a jug. Get in whatever pro u can find (small cams/tricams) Move up and work back left on a horizontal incut rail (crux) towards the chimney and pull the overhang on more jugs to bolt anchors.

Brand new 2 bolt cold shut anchor at the top(8/20/12) A 60 meter rope will work to rap/lower.

Keep an eye out for hidden holds.

V1 - Finish directly up the bombay chimney to the anchors. Slightly more challenging, but less exposed, finish. 5.9

Start

15' right and slightly uphill from Black Arch Arete on the "Patio" ledge. Locate a large corner system with a crack that varies from hands to chimney size at the top of the cliff. There is a small overhang about 8 feet off the deck.