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Routes in Black Arches Wall
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Adirondack Rehabilitation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Amnesia Chasm T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Amphitheatre Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Birthday Corner T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Black Arch Arête T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Black Arches Wall | 8704 T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Broken Broom T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Carpenter & Das T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Cranium T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Critical Crimps T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Crossway T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Dexter's Dugout T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Drive T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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E-stim T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Eatin' Tripe and Lichen It T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Four Ounces to Freedom S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Full Recovery T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Gun Show T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Hang Time T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Here I Go Again T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Impulse Drive T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13 |
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Intensive Care T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Lane Change T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Outpatient T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Parallel Passage T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Pinch an Inch T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Plumb Line T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Post Op T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Recuperation Boulevard T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Reducto Adductor T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Renegade T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13 |
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Scaredy Cat T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Second Job T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Side Show T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Sleepy Hollow T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Tilly's Trench T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Torcher T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Tribulations T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
| GPS: | 43.5431, -73.95414 |
| FA: | Jamie McNeill, Alysia Catalfamo, Jay Harrison 8/3/09 |
| Page Views: | 4,424 total · 22/month |
| Shared By: | Jay Harrison on Aug 28, 2009 |
| Admins: | Morgan Patterson, Kevin MudRat MacKenzie, Jim Lawyer |
Description
P1: Climb up left on small ramps to a stance on top of a tooth-shaped, 2' high flake (same start as Parallel Passage). Traverse R to the crack and then climb the crack directly up through the overhang to the top (100') or to fixed anchors at 80'.
V1: Plumb Line Direct 5.11c
Climb directly up the seam/thin crack from the Patio.
NOTE 4/27/2013: A large chunk of this climb fell down over the winter: a 20' tall, 5' wide, 4' thick block which comprised the right side of the overhang crux section of the route. Looks probable that, once the rock dust is swept off, I suspect this will make the route easier.
Location
The Black Arches Wall is accessible by a 1/2 hour walk along a good herd path through the Boulderwoods and up along the side of the mountain, passing the Measles Wall and South Corner Cliffs along the way.
Start: This route begins on the "Patio", a ledge over a 30-40', scruffy slab, 50' R of Black Arch Arête, at a dead-vertical, thin crack/seam splitting a 12' wide square-cut buttress.
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