Avg: 3.8 from 8 votes
|Type:||Trad, 100 ft|
|FA:||Jamie McNeill, Alysia Catalfamo, Jay Harrison 8/3/09|
|Page Views:||2,785 total · 27/month|
|Shared By:||Jay Harrison on Aug 28, 2009|
DescriptionP1: Climb up left on small ramps to a stance on top of a tooth-shaped, 2' high flake (same start as Parallel Passage). Traverse R to the crack and then climb the crack directly up through the overhang to the top (100') or to fixed anchors at 80'.
V1: Plumb Line Direct 5.11c
Climb directly up the seam/thin crack from the Patio.
NOTE 4/27/2013: A large chunk of this climb fell down over the winter: a 20' tall, 5' wide, 4' thick block which comprised the right side of the overhang crux section of the route. Looks probable that, once the rock dust is swept off, I suspect this will make the route easier.
LocationThe Black Arches Wall is accessible by a 1/2 hour walk along a good herd path through the Boulderwoods and up along the side of the mountain, passing the Measles Wall and South Corner Cliffs along the way.
Start: This route begins on the "Patio", a ledge over a 30-40', scruffy slab, 50' R of Black Arch Arête, at a dead-vertical, thin crack/seam splitting a 12' wide square-cut buttress.