Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Jamie McNeill, Alysia Catalfamo, Jay Harrison 8/3/09
Page Views: 2,984 total · 26/month
Shared By: Jay Harrison on Aug 28, 2009
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route

9 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:

     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:

-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick


P1: Climb up left on small ramps to a stance on top of a tooth-shaped, 2' high flake (same start as Parallel Passage). Traverse R to the crack and then climb the crack directly up through the overhang to the top (100') or to fixed anchors at 80'.
V1: Plumb Line Direct 5.11c
Climb directly up the seam/thin crack from the Patio.
NOTE 4/27/2013: A large chunk of this climb fell down over the winter: a 20' tall, 5' wide, 4' thick block which comprised the right side of the overhang crux section of the route. Looks probable that, once the rock dust is swept off, I suspect this will make the route easier.


The Black Arches Wall is accessible by a 1/2 hour walk along a good herd path through the Boulderwoods and up along the side of the mountain, passing the Measles Wall and South Corner Cliffs along the way.

Start: This route begins on the "Patio", a ledge over a 30-40', scruffy slab, 50' R of Black Arch ArĂȘte, at a dead-vertical, thin crack/seam splitting a 12' wide square-cut buttress.


All Trad: nuts and small to medium cams.
There is a fixed anchor (Two 3 1/2" bolts with ss rap anchors, August 2009) after passing the difficult climbing, at 80'
Jim Lawyer

Jim Lawyer    
Is this .10c or .11a? Aug 29, 2009
I am confused by Jim's comment. If you start from the Patio, thus avoiding the difficult slab what does it go at? And while we are at it, what is the rating for the climbing up the slab to the Patio? Jun 27, 2011
Jim Lawyer

Jim Lawyer    
Straight up is .11c. Alternatively, you can start on the neighboring route to the left and traverse in above the .11c part, making the route (in my opinion) .10d/.11a. Jun 28, 2011
Jaysen Henderson
Brooklyn NY
Jaysen Henderson   Brooklyn NY
this route looks amazing, has anyone done the direct start yet? Aug 6, 2011
Kevin Heckeler
Las Vegas, NV
Kevin Heckeler   Las Vegas, NV
The direct start is 11-something (I believe Jim is correct with 11c). Jamie McNeill has since returned to send the direct start.

There was rock fall early 2013 and the top of this route has been severely altered. Word is that the route can still be climbed and protected but has changed significantly in the final ~20 feet. If you know how to reach him, contact Jay Harrison for more information.

Note regarding the rock fall was added to the route description above. Jul 29, 2013
Ben J.
Beacon, NY
Ben J.   Beacon, NY
This is a great route. If you don't want any thoughts on gear, read no further. However, saving a small cam (0 or 00 TCU or equivalent... I think the 00 would work a little better?) for the end of this climb will be very reassuring. Might want to bring two of that small size. Nov 10, 2013
Nick W
Orford, NH
Nick W   Orford, NH
This climb has changed character a bit since the rockfall, and in my opinion is less enjoyable and aesthetic, but the lower crack/ face moves are still cool. The new post rockfall corner felt a bit run-out to me, and might benefit from a bolt. Did anyone else have a similar experience? Aug 6, 2014
Peter Howes
Peter Howes  
Great route! Maybe it was better before the rockfall but its still a killer line if you like splitter fingers with comfortable feet outside the crack! I used nothing bigger than a yellow alien on the entire climb, don't bother bringing cams unless they are petite.

Coming up into the corner felt a little hairy, but you can punch a yellow X4 as soon as the crack opens again. A bolt would make it easier, but speaking from experience, the fall here was clean and the nut I placed before the horizontal was bomber. So bomber its now fixed...

But I will be back soon, hopefully to remove my piece and snag the send. Super fun! Sep 12, 2015
Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
What? There was a 20' X 5' X 4' block that broke off and no one thought it was suspect? Jul 13, 2016
There are so many positive crimps on either side of the crack that it seemed contrived to climb the crack! And the climb changes character completely and jarringly at the top where the block fell off. The moves are interesting and fun, though. Worth getting on. Sep 23, 2018