Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Black Arches Wall

Adirondack Rehabilitation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Amnesia Chasm T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Amphitheatre Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Birthday Corner T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Black Arch ArĂȘte T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Broken Broom T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Carpenter & Das T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cranium T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Critical Crimps T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Crossway T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Dexter's Dugout T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Drive T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
E-stim T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Eatin' Tripe and Lichen It T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Four Ounces to Freedom S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Full Recovery T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Gun Show T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hang Time T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Here I Go Again T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Impulse Drive T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Intensive Care T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Lane Change T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Outpatient T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Parallel Passage T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pinch an Inch T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Plumb Line T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Post Op T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Recuperation Boulevard T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Reducto Adductor T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Renegade T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Scaredy Cat T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Second Job T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Side Show T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Sleepy Hollow T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Suicidal Sydney T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Tilly's Trench T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Torcher T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tribulations T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Jamie McNeill, Alysia Catalfamo, Jay Harrison 8/3/09
Page Views: 2,835 total · 27/month
Shared By: Jay Harrison on Aug 28, 2009
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


7 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description [Edit]

P1: Climb up left on small ramps to a stance on top of a tooth-shaped, 2' high flake (same start as Parallel Passage). Traverse R to the crack and then climb the crack directly up through the overhang to the top (100') or to fixed anchors at 80'.
V1: Plumb Line Direct 5.11c
Climb directly up the seam/thin crack from the Patio.
NOTE 4/27/2013: A large chunk of this climb fell down over the winter: a 20' tall, 5' wide, 4' thick block which comprised the right side of the overhang crux section of the route. Looks probable that, once the rock dust is swept off, I suspect this will make the route easier.

Location [Edit]

The Black Arches Wall is accessible by a 1/2 hour walk along a good herd path through the Boulderwoods and up along the side of the mountain, passing the Measles Wall and South Corner Cliffs along the way.

Start: This route begins on the "Patio", a ledge over a 30-40', scruffy slab, 50' R of Black Arch ArĂȘte, at a dead-vertical, thin crack/seam splitting a 12' wide square-cut buttress.

Protection [Edit]

All Trad: nuts and small to medium cams.
There is a fixed anchor (Two 3 1/2" bolts with ss rap anchors, August 2009) after passing the difficult climbing, at 80'
Jim Lawyer

  5.11a
Jim Lawyer    
  5.11a
Is this .10c or .11a? Aug 29, 2009
losbill  
I am confused by Jim's comment. If you start from the Patio, thus avoiding the difficult slab what does it go at? And while we are at it, what is the rating for the climbing up the slab to the Patio? Jun 27, 2011
Jim Lawyer

  5.11a
Jim Lawyer    
  5.11a
Straight up is .11c. Alternatively, you can start on the neighboring route to the left and traverse in above the .11c part, making the route (in my opinion) .10d/.11a. Jun 28, 2011
Jaysen Henderson
Bronx NY
Jaysen Henderson   Bronx NY
this route looks amazing, has anyone done the direct start yet? Aug 6, 2011
Kevin Heckeler
Upstate New York
Kevin Heckeler   Upstate New York
The direct start is 11-something (I believe Jim is correct with 11c). Jamie McNeill has since returned to send the direct start.

There was rock fall early 2013 and the top of this route has been severely altered. Word is that the route can still be climbed and protected but has changed significantly in the final ~20 feet. If you know how to reach him, contact Jay Harrison for more information.

Note regarding the rock fall was added to the route description above. Jul 29, 2013
Ben J.
Beacon, NY
  5.11a
Ben J.   Beacon, NY
  5.11a
This is a great route. If you don't want any thoughts on gear, read no further. However, saving a small cam (0 or 00 TCU or equivalent... I think the 00 would work a little better?) for the end of this climb will be very reassuring. Might want to bring two of that small size. Nov 10, 2013
Nick Weinberg
Lyme, NH
Nick Weinberg   Lyme, NH
This climb has changed character a bit since the rockfall, and in my opinion is less enjoyable and aesthetic, but the lower crack/ face moves are still cool. The new post rockfall corner felt a bit run-out to me, and might benefit from a bolt. Did anyone else have a similar experience? Aug 6, 2014
Peter Howes
  5.10d
Peter Howes  
  5.10d
Great route! Maybe it was better before the rockfall but its still a killer line if you like splitter fingers with comfortable feet outside the crack! I used nothing bigger than a yellow alien on the entire climb, don't bother bringing cams unless they are petite.

Coming up into the corner felt a little hairy, but you can punch a yellow X4 as soon as the crack opens again. A bolt would make it easier, but speaking from experience, the fall here was clean and the nut I placed before the horizontal was bomber. So bomber its now fixed...

But I will be back soon, hopefully to remove my piece and snag the send. Super fun! Sep 12, 2015
Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
What? There was a 20' X 5' X 4' block that broke off and no one thought it was suspect? Jul 13, 2016

More About Plumb Line

Printer-Friendly