Type: Trad, 70 ft (21 m)
FA: Summer 2011
Page Views: 2,861 total · 19/month
Shared By: Jay Harrison on Nov 18, 2011
Admins: Morgan Patterson, Kevin MudRat MacKenzie, Jim Lawyer

You & This Route

23 Opinions
Your To-Do List: Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Rating Rating Rating Rating Rating      Clear Rating
Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change
Your Ticks:Add New Tick
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Description Suggest change

Well-protected (i.e. plenty of bolts) face climbing and consistently challenging, this line is a more comfortable and more sustained twin of its neighbor, Pinch an Inch.
There are 2 cruxes, getting past the 1st and 2nd bolts. A few sloper moves round out the challenge before reaching the anchors.
Climb the leftmost of a series of short, vertical crack/corners right of Amphitheatre Crack, up right past the first bolt to a slanting, rounded ledge. Ride this up left to its tippy-top, clip another bolt, and make a hard move to a horizontal crack. Climb the face above this on rounded holds, passing two more bolts along the way, to join Amphitheatre Crack inches from the anchor ledge.

NOTE: A lot of ice forms over the lip of the Birthday Corner early in the season. It falls from >30m up, landing among the base of all the Amphitheatre area routes. Even after the main winter's accumulation has fallen, nightly formations continue to bombard the area. Be watchful, wear a helmet, and if big ice is looming above on that crystalline spring morning, maybe climb somewhere else.

Location Suggest change

15' right of Amphitheatre Crack, 20' left of the right-facing corner of Dexter's Dugout, at the leftmost series of small corners in the steep face.

Protection Suggest change

Bring a standard rack of cams and 4 QDs for the 4 bolts enroute.
Anchors at 70'.