Continue with Facebook
Routes in Black Arches Wall
|
Adirondack Rehabilitation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
|
Amnesia Chasm T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
|
|
Amphitheatre Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Birthday Corner T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Black Arch Arête T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
|
|
Broken Broom T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Carpenter & Das T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Cranium T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
|
|
Critical Crimps T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Crossway T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
|
|
Dexter's Dugout T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Drive T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
E-stim T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
|
|
Eatin' Tripe and Lichen It T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Four Ounces to Freedom S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
|
|
Full Recovery T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
|
|
Gun Show T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Hang Time T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
|
|
Here I Go Again T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
|
Impulse Drive T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13 |
|
|
Intensive Care T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
|
|
Lane Change T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Outpatient T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
|
|
Parallel Passage T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Pinch an Inch T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
|
|
Plumb Line T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Post Op T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Recuperation Boulevard T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
|
|
Reducto Adductor T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
|
|
Renegade T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13 |
|
|
Scaredy Cat T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
|
|
Second Job T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Side Show T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Sleepy Hollow T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Suicidal Sydney T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
|
|
Tilly's Trench T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
|
|
Torcher T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Tribulations T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
Order Wrong?
Sort Routes
| Type: | Trad, 140 ft (42 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | September 14, 2010 |
| Page Views: | 1,872 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | Jay Harrison on Sep 16, 2010 |
| Admins: | Morgan Patterson, Jim Lawyer, Kevin MudRat MacKenzie |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·Your Star Rating:
Description
Originally climbed as a variation to E-stim, this re-route offers a fitting start to the best tour of the Isobuttress section of the Black Arches Wall.
P1: Climb up the blocky corners to a horizontal crack leading around the corner left. Follow it left and step up onto the narrow ledge. Follow this leftward, crossing E-Stim and Lane Change, then step up slightly and continue left to another good handrail. Take it left past one tenuous move, step up and back right to a fixed anchor on a spruce tree.
P2: Walk left on a ledge past a large, rectangular block on a ledge at head-height, then climb up on this ledge and move farther left to a vertical crack (part of Carpenter & Das, just above that route's belay ledge). Climb this to its end, step up left and follow zig-zag ramps to a vertical crack leading to a triangular roof. Climb to the roof, work around it to the right, step back left onto a perch on the nose, and climb the arete to a large ledge. Anchors on the face allow two rappels to the ground.
There are several 5.5/6ish moves: on the first pitch, the opening move of the traverse and the last few moves as well. On the second, getting onto Carpenter & Das' vertical crack and getting around the overhang near the top.
I've really come to enjoy this route; it includes plenty of airy traverse and exposed positions with secure pro and mellow climbing.
NOTE: there are several appealing variations awaiting a lead send, #1 being a complete hand-traverse across the leftward rail of the 1st P (dubbed Low Recovery), and another being a very strenuous leftward traverse (a.k.a. No Recovery), following a low, thin horizontal to/past Adirondack Rehab; but as this route crosses the entire face, one could link up with any route along the way as well.
P1: Climb up the blocky corners to a horizontal crack leading around the corner left. Follow it left and step up onto the narrow ledge. Follow this leftward, crossing E-Stim and Lane Change, then step up slightly and continue left to another good handrail. Take it left past one tenuous move, step up and back right to a fixed anchor on a spruce tree.
P2: Walk left on a ledge past a large, rectangular block on a ledge at head-height, then climb up on this ledge and move farther left to a vertical crack (part of Carpenter & Das, just above that route's belay ledge). Climb this to its end, step up left and follow zig-zag ramps to a vertical crack leading to a triangular roof. Climb to the roof, work around it to the right, step back left onto a perch on the nose, and climb the arete to a large ledge. Anchors on the face allow two rappels to the ground.
There are several 5.5/6ish moves: on the first pitch, the opening move of the traverse and the last few moves as well. On the second, getting onto Carpenter & Das' vertical crack and getting around the overhang near the top.
I've really come to enjoy this route; it includes plenty of airy traverse and exposed positions with secure pro and mellow climbing.
NOTE: there are several appealing variations awaiting a lead send, #1 being a complete hand-traverse across the leftward rail of the 1st P (dubbed Low Recovery), and another being a very strenuous leftward traverse (a.k.a. No Recovery), following a low, thin horizontal to/past Adirondack Rehab; but as this route crosses the entire face, one could link up with any route along the way as well.
1 Comment