Avg: 2.9 from 7 votes
|Type:||Trad, 140 ft, 2 pitches|
|FA:||September 14, 2010|
|Page Views:||999 total · 11/month|
|Shared By:||Jay Harrison on Sep 16, 2010|
DescriptionOriginally climbed as a variation to E-stim, this re-route offers a fitting start to the best tour of the Isobuttress section of the Black Arches Wall.
P1: Climb up the blocky corners to a horizontal crack leading around the corner left. Follow it left and step up onto the narrow ledge. Follow this leftward, crossing E-Stim and Lane Change, then step up slightly and continue left to another good handrail. Take it left past one tenuous move, step up and back right to a fixed anchor on a spruce tree.
P2: Walk left on a ledge past a large, rectangular block on a ledge at head-height, then climb up on this ledge and move farther left to a vertical crack (part of Carpenter & Das, just above that route's belay ledge). Climb this to its end, step up left and follow zig-zag ramps to a vertical crack leading to a triangular roof. Climb to the roof, work around it to the right, step back left onto a perch on the nose, and climb the arete to a large ledge. Anchors on the face allow two rappels to the ground.
There are several 5.5/6ish moves: on the first pitch, the opening move of the traverse and the last few moves as well. On the second, getting onto Carpenter & Das' vertical crack and getting around the overhang near the top.
I've really come to enjoy this route; it includes plenty of airy traverse and exposed positions with secure pro and mellow climbing.
NOTE: there are several appealing variations awaiting a lead send, #1 being a complete hand-traverse across the leftward rail of the 1st P (dubbed Low Recovery), and another being a very strenuous leftward traverse (a.k.a. No Recovery), following a low, thin horizontal to/past Adirondack Rehab; but as this route crosses the entire face, one could link up with any route along the way as well.