Avg: 1 from 1 vote
Routes in Black Arches Wall
|Adirondack Rehabilitation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R|
|Amnesia Chasm T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c|
|Amphitheatre Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Birthday Corner T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b|
|Black Arch Arête T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13|
|Broken Broom T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Carpenter & Das T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Cranium T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13|
|Critical Crimps T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Crossway T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Dexter's Dugout T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Drive T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|E-stim T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Eatin' Tripe and Lichen It T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Four Ounces to Freedom S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b|
|Full Recovery T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Gun Show T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Hang Time T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13|
|Here I Go Again T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Impulse Drive T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13|
|Intensive Care T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R|
|Lane Change T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Outpatient T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13|
|Parallel Passage T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Pinch an Inch T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R|
|Plumb Line T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Post Op T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Recuperation Boulevard T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Reducto Adductor T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13|
|Renegade T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13|
|Scaredy Cat T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13|
|Second Job T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Side Show T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b|
|Sleepy Hollow T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Suicidal Sydney T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c|
|Tilly's Trench T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a|
|Torcher T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Tribulations T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a|
|Type:||Trad, 60 ft|
|FA:||August, 2011: Jay Harrison, Tom Lane|
|Page Views:||215 total, 3/month|
|Shared By:||Jay Harrison on Sep 15, 2011|
DescriptionClimb the ramp to the corner and (crux) work up onto the ledge with a parallogram-shaped, ten-foot tall block leaning on it.
Climb the block to its top, then step into the chimney to the left. Turn facing "outward" and pull up onto a good ledge. Walk around this onto the main face, joining Pinch an Inch for the last 25'.
The crux move is protectable with a large cam, though the flaring crack doesn't lend said pro much credence.
This was an impulse-driven send (hence its name), performed with bad footwear, minimal cleaning, and even less forethought.
NOTE: A lot of ice forms over the lip of the Birthday Corner early in the season. It falls from >30m up, landing among the base of all the Amphitheatre area routes. Even after the main winter's accumulation has fallen, nightly formations continue to bombard the area. Be watchful, wear a helmet, and if big ice is looming above on that crystalline spring morning, maybe climb somewhere else.
LocationIn the Amphitheatre, 10' right of the right-facing corner right of Amphitheatre Crack and Pinch an Inch, at a left-rising, narrow ramp leading to a right-facing corner with a wide, flaring crack below a ledge.
Use the 2-bolt anchor at the top to descend.
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