Type: Trad, 135 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Todd Paris, Jay Harrison
Page Views: 1,905 total · 17/month
Shared By: Tparis on Sep 13, 2009
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


17 Opinions

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Description

Start: At a hand crack that becomes an offwidth 20' up, 10' left of the right end of the Isobuttress and 25' right of Recuperation Boulevard.

P1 5.6 G: Climb the crack through the steep wall to easier-angled rock. Step up and left to a nice handcrack and follow it to a large spruce (fixed anchor). 50'

P2 5.5 PG: Climb up left along a crack–ramp to a right-facing corner. Up this corner for 8' to the second notch breaking left around the corner. Take this and move up and left to join Recuperation Boulevard shortly before reaching the summit anchors. 85'

Protection

Standard Trad rack. A #4 and #5 Camalot useful for P1.

Photos

Kevin Heckeler
Las Vegas, NV
  5.6
Kevin Heckeler   Las Vegas, NV
  5.6
Second pitch was awesome, comes close (but stays slightly right) to linking up with Carp&Daz near the top, and shares many of its unique features and fun climbing. Oct 10, 2010
Jay Harrison  
 
Couple notes re: 2nd pitch:
1. There are two obvious notches cutting across the right-facing corner; this route takes the upper one. It does not go through the overhanging notch above the corner, nor does it traverse the lower notch (this can be done, but it is very awkward).
2. Leaders should take care to protect their followers on the traverse through this notch. I've seen two followers scrape across this face when they fell starting the traverse. Not really dangerous, but unpleasant.
3. The original route does not follow the upper horizontal all the way over to join Carpenter & Das; it climbs up a slabby face after stepping to the outside of the buttress, then moves right to gain the top ledge before traversing out to the anchors or trees. This is definitely PG turf, about 5.4 difficulty. The full traverse has better protection, so many leaders opt to do it. Remember to protect the follower! Apr 23, 2012