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Routes in Black Arches Wall

Adirondack Rehabilitation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Amnesia Chasm T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Amphitheatre Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Birthday Corner T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Black Arch Arête T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Broken Broom T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Carpenter & Das T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cranium T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Critical Crimps T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Crossway T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Dexter's Dugout T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Drive T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
E-stim T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Eatin' Tripe and Lichen It T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Four Ounces to Freedom S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Full Recovery T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Gun Show T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hang Time T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Here I Go Again T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Impulse Drive T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Intensive Care T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Lane Change T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Outpatient T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Parallel Passage T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pinch an Inch T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Plumb Line T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Post Op T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Recuperation Boulevard T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Reducto Adductor T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Renegade T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Scaredy Cat T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Second Job T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Side Show T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Sleepy Hollow T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Suicidal Sydney T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Tilly's Trench T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Torcher T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tribulations T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Type: Trad, 135 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Todd Paris, Jay Harrison
Page Views: 1,846 total, 18/month
Shared By: Tparis on Sep 13, 2009
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


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Description

Start: At a hand crack that becomes an offwidth 20' up, 10' left of the right end of the Isobuttress and 25' right of Recuperation Boulevard.

P1 5.6 G: Climb the crack through the steep wall to easier-angled rock. Step up and left to a nice handcrack and follow it to a large spruce (fixed anchor). 50'

P2 5.5 PG: Climb up left along a crack–ramp to a right-facing corner. Up this corner for 8' to the second notch breaking left around the corner. Take this and move up and left to join Recuperation Boulevard shortly before reaching the summit anchors. 85'



Protection

Standard Trad rack. A #4 and #5 Camalot useful for P1.

Photos

Jay Harrison  
 
Couple notes re: 2nd pitch:
1. There are two obvious notches cutting across the right-facing corner; this route takes the upper one. It does not go through the overhanging notch above the corner, nor does it traverse the lower notch (this can be done, but it is very awkward).
2. Leaders should take care to protect their followers on the traverse through this notch. I've seen two followers scrape across this face when they fell starting the traverse. Not really dangerous, but unpleasant.
3. The original route does not follow the upper horizontal all the way over to join Carpenter & Das; it climbs up a slabby face after stepping to the outside of the buttress, then moves right to gain the top ledge before traversing out to the anchors or trees. This is definitely PG turf, about 5.4 difficulty. The full traverse has better protection, so many leaders opt to do it. Remember to protect the follower! Apr 23, 2012
Kevin Heckeler
Upstate New York
  5.6
Kevin Heckeler   Upstate New York
  5.6
Second pitch was awesome, comes close (but stays slightly right) to linking up with Carp&Daz near the top, and shares many of its unique features and fun climbing. Oct 10, 2010