Type: Trad, 40 ft (12 m)
FA: 2012 Tom Lane
Page Views: 836 total · 6/month
Shared By: Jay Harrison on Oct 6, 2012
Admins: Morgan Patterson, Kevin MudRat MacKenzie, Jim Lawyer

You & This Route

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Description Suggest change

Extremely pumpy, strenuous gear placements, and a couple contortionistic methods get you up this short, beefy testpiece.
Climb up vertical crack to join the left-leaning crack, and follow that to the top. For laughs and giggles, one can shoot straight up the face after following the left-leaning crack to just right of the wide notch; this yields another 5.10 move (10a, and protectable) to this punk-midget line.
The route's name derives from what the route did to the First Ascentionist on an early (resultantly unsuccessful) attempt.

Location Suggest change

On the left face of the Right End Buttress, at a vertical crack leading to a left-leaning vertical crack 16' up. This is about 12' right of the start of Suicidal Sidney.

Protection Suggest change

Full set of C3s and C4s to #1. Tricams helpful.