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Routes in Black Arches Wall

Adirondack Rehabilitation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Amnesia Chasm T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Amphitheatre Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Birthday Corner T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Black Arch ArĂȘte T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Broken Broom T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Carpenter & Das T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cranium T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Critical Crimps T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Crossway T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Dexter's Dugout T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Drive T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
E-stim T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Eatin' Tripe and Lichen It T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Four Ounces to Freedom S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Full Recovery T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Gun Show T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hang Time T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Here I Go Again T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Impulse Drive T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Intensive Care T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Lane Change T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Outpatient T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Parallel Passage T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pinch an Inch T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Plumb Line T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Post Op T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Recuperation Boulevard T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Reducto Adductor T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Renegade T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Scaredy Cat T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Second Job T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Side Show T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Sleepy Hollow T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Suicidal Sydney T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Tilly's Trench T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Torcher T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tribulations T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: 10th September, 2009
Page Views: 1,570 total, 16/month
Shared By: Jay Harrison on Sep 15, 2009
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


16 Opinions

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Description

Climb up to the "tooth" flake, then step up into the twin-crack groove. Follow groove ~40' (crux) until the angle eases, then ascend up left along a black ramp/slab under a beaked overhang and along the same line for ~20' to the obvious crack/flake system breaks through the short, steep wall above, landing you directly below a two-bolt anchor.
Optionally, once you've climbed through the layback and chimney section of the route, do not move left along the beaked overhang. Instead, look for a thin crack leading rightward across the Plumbline block. Follow it right and move up to the fixed anchors of that route.

Location

Same start as Plumb Line, just below the obvious twin crack system to its left.

Protection

Small to medium-large cams (C4s to #3, couple of medium C3s)

Photos

M. Lane
Golden, CO
 
M. Lane   Golden, CO
 
From the ground this climb didn't look too enticing, but wow, it's a great pitch. Jam, layback, stem, chimney?! I agree that this is stiff for a 5.9, and I think it's more difficult than the Amphitheater Crack. It's strenuous, but the gear is great. If you plan on traversing right to the Plum Line anchors, make sure you don't follow the crack to its end. Look right for an opportunity to traverse. Aug 14, 2014
Nick Weinberg
Lyme, NH
  5.10a/b
Nick Weinberg   Lyme, NH
  5.10a/b
I think this is 5.10. Sustained and harder than it looks, but well protected. Nov 11, 2011
losbill  
Check Plumb Line description. Mar 11, 2011
Jaysen Henderson
Bronx NY
Jaysen Henderson   Bronx NY
has anyone ever done the crack to the right of parallel passage? it looks very appetizing Mar 10, 2011
Jim Lawyer

  5.9+
Jim Lawyer    
  5.9+
I found this deceptively difficult, pretty stiff for a 9.

When the angle eases, you can traverse right and lower from the fixed anchor on Plumb Line (setting you up to TR that route). Oct 1, 2010