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Routes in Black Arches Wall

Adirondack Rehabilitation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Amnesia Chasm T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Amphitheatre Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Birthday Corner T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Black Arch ArĂȘte T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Broken Broom T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Carpenter & Das T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cranium T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Critical Crimps T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Crossway T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Dexter's Dugout T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Drive T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
E-stim T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Eatin' Tripe and Lichen It T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Four Ounces to Freedom S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Full Recovery T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Gun Show T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hang Time T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Here I Go Again T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Impulse Drive T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Intensive Care T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Lane Change T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Outpatient T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Parallel Passage T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pinch an Inch T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Plumb Line T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Post Op T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Recuperation Boulevard T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Reducto Adductor T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Renegade T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Scaredy Cat T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Second Job T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Side Show T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Sleepy Hollow T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Suicidal Sydney T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Tilly's Trench T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Torcher T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tribulations T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Type: Trad, 135 ft
FA: June 2011
Page Views: 232 total, 3/month
Shared By: Jay Harrison on Jun 22, 2011
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


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Description

Make a bouldery move using the left-facing microcorner to reach a large ledge. Step right and climb the left edge of a slab through a steep, chocolate-colored wall with no protection (5.6X), to a stance below an overhang. Break through this via a right-facing flake/flaring crack to a stance 5' left of the spruce tree anchor (possible belay here). Climb straight up the face to another stance below a low-angle, blunt face. Climb the face to a small stance and continue straight up the arĂȘte above (5.8R) to another stance, joining E-Stim for its most run-out section, up another face. Continue straight up the last face (5.8R), finishing just right of the bolt anchors.

Location

At the face 4' right of a 2' tall block lying against the cliff (which is the start of Carpenter & Das), below a tiny left-facing corner.
Fixed anchors lie on the spruce tree 45' up, and bolts lie just below the ledge at the top of the route.

Protection

Small trad rack with microcams and Camalots from .3 to 2
There are several bad runouts on this route; the grade's full status is 5.8R 6X.

Photos

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losbill  
Gee Jay! Almost at a loss for words! With the emphasis on "almost"! Quite the description! Part of me says, "Wow. That sounds exciting! Maybe I will give it a go." The other part of me says "Hmm! Don't think that is going to see a lot of traffic!!!!" Whatever the case, having been on several of your other FAs I'm sure it is a very worthwhile climb. I admire your energy. Keep up the good work!!! Jun 27, 2011