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Routes in Black Arches Wall

Adirondack Rehabilitation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Amnesia Chasm T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Amphitheatre Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Birthday Corner T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Black Arch ArĂȘte T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Broken Broom T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Carpenter & Das T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cranium T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Critical Crimps T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Crossway T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Dexter's Dugout T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Drive T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
E-stim T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Eatin' Tripe and Lichen It T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Four Ounces to Freedom S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Full Recovery T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Gun Show T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hang Time T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Here I Go Again T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Impulse Drive T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Intensive Care T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Lane Change T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Outpatient T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Parallel Passage T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pinch an Inch T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Plumb Line T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Post Op T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Recuperation Boulevard T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Reducto Adductor T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Renegade T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Scaredy Cat T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Second Job T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Side Show T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Sleepy Hollow T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Suicidal Sydney T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Tilly's Trench T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Torcher T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tribulations T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
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Type: Trad, 135 ft
FA: June 2011
Page Views: 236 total · 3/month
Shared By: Jay Harrison on Jun 22, 2011
Admins: Jim Lawyer

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Description [Edit]

Make a bouldery move using the left-facing microcorner to reach a large ledge. Step right and climb the left edge of a slab through a steep, chocolate-colored wall with no protection (5.6X), to a stance below an overhang. Break through this via a right-facing flake/flaring crack to a stance 5' left of the spruce tree anchor (possible belay here). Climb straight up the face to another stance below a low-angle, blunt face. Climb the face to a small stance and continue straight up the arĂȘte above (5.8R) to another stance, joining E-Stim for its most run-out section, up another face. Continue straight up the last face (5.8R), finishing just right of the bolt anchors.

Location [Edit]

At the face 4' right of a 2' tall block lying against the cliff (which is the start of Carpenter & Das), below a tiny left-facing corner.
Fixed anchors lie on the spruce tree 45' up, and bolts lie just below the ledge at the top of the route.

Protection [Edit]

Small trad rack with microcams and Camalots from .3 to 2
There are several bad runouts on this route; the grade's full status is 5.8R 6X.

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losbill  
Gee Jay! Almost at a loss for words! With the emphasis on "almost"! Quite the description! Part of me says, "Wow. That sounds exciting! Maybe I will give it a go." The other part of me says "Hmm! Don't think that is going to see a lot of traffic!!!!" Whatever the case, having been on several of your other FAs I'm sure it is a very worthwhile climb. I admire your energy. Keep up the good work!!! Jun 27, 2011

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