Avg: 2.8 from 19 votes
|Type:||Trad, 145 ft|
|Page Views:||2,001 total · 15/month|
|Shared By:||Jay Harrison on Nov 23, 2009|
P1: (V1)Climb the left side of the apron slab of the Isobuttress, past 2 bolts to a block with a casket-sized niche 4' above. Get up in the niche and then (V2) ascend via the crack on its left edge (V3) to a small ledge with an anchor in a perched spruce tree.
P2: Step left and climb a left-slanting crack to a ledge. Climb up the righthand crack on the face above this to a horizontal**, then make a tricky step right to gain a brushy vertical crack. Climb up this, then climb up and left along a good crack to the low-angle on an arête. Up this, move right for pro, then back left to reach a good ledge, with anchors on the left side of the face just below it.
P3: Climb the 10' high 5.6 face to the top (or rappel from the anchors).
The first pitch is very good; the second is mundane; a better finish traverses left to join Carpenter & Das for its upper pitch.
V1 5.10a: Start 10' left of the slab, using side pulls to dyno for a good jug, then rejoin the standard route.
V2 5.10d TR: Climb through overhang above the niche up the face right of the crack to a left-facing corner, then continue up to a horizontal rail and traverse left to the anchor.
V3 5.8: Climb the crack to the end of the flaring chimney part, then rail right to a left-facing corner before going up to a horizontal rail and traversing left to the anchor. This variation has become part of the route Outpatient.
- *There is an off-route bolt above this junction of cracks, a proposed "direct" finish pitch, which runs up the vertical crack and through the face above the bolt. I would like to see it continue up the outside corner right of Carpenter & Das' crack, but it would need another bolt. So far, this has defied all lead attempts. Have at it.