Type: Trad, 145 ft (44 m)
FA: September 2009
Page Views: 2,691 total · 15/month
Shared By: Jay Harrison on Nov 23, 2009
Admins: Morgan Patterson, Kevin MudRat MacKenzie, Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

The technical crux is getting out of the niche, but many climbers feel more challenged by the tenuous friction of the opening slab.

P1: (V1)Climb the left side of the apron slab of the Isobuttress, past 2 bolts to a block with a casket-sized niche 4' above. Get up in the niche and then (V2) ascend via the crack on its left edge (V3) to a small ledge with an anchor in a perched spruce tree.

P2: Step left and climb a left-slanting crack to a ledge. Climb up the righthand crack on the face above this to a horizontal**, then make a tricky step right to gain a brushy vertical crack. Climb up this, then climb up and left along a good crack to the low-angle on an arĂȘte. Up this, move right for pro, then back left to reach a good ledge, with anchors on the left side of the face just below it.

P3: Climb the 10' high 5.6 face to the top (or rappel from the anchors).
The first pitch is very good; the second is mundane; a better finish traverses left to join Carpenter & Das for its upper pitch.

V1 5.10a: Start 10' left of the slab, using side pulls to dyno for a good jug, then rejoin the standard route.
V2 5.10d TR: Climb through overhang above the niche up the face right of the crack to a left-facing corner, then continue up to a horizontal rail and traverse left to the anchor.
V3 5.8: Climb the crack to the end of the flaring chimney part, then rail right to a left-facing corner before going up to a horizontal rail and traversing left to the anchor. This variation has become part of the route Outpatient.

  • *There is an off-route bolt above this junction of cracks, a proposed "direct" finish pitch, which runs up the vertical crack and through the face above the bolt. I would like to see it continue up the outside corner right of Carpenter & Das' crack, but it would need another bolt. So far, this has defied all lead attempts. Have at it.

Location Suggest change

15' right of Carpenter & Das, near the left edge of a slab, below a line of two bolts.

Protection Suggest change

Modern trad rack.
2-bolt anchor at top of 2nd Pitch.
Note there is an off-route bolt on Pitch 2.

Photos

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