Avg: 2.9 from 19 votes
Routes in Black Arches Wall
|Adirondack Rehabilitation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R|
|Amnesia Chasm T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c|
|Amphitheatre Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Birthday Corner T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b|
|Black Arch Arête T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13|
|Broken Broom T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Carpenter & Das T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Cranium T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13|
|Critical Crimps T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Crossway T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Dexter's Dugout T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Drive T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|E-stim T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Eatin' Tripe and Lichen It T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Four Ounces to Freedom S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b|
|Full Recovery T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Gun Show T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Hang Time T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13|
|Here I Go Again T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Impulse Drive T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13|
|Intensive Care T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R|
|Lane Change T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Outpatient T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13|
|Parallel Passage T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Pinch an Inch T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R|
|Plumb Line T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Post Op T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Recuperation Boulevard T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Reducto Adductor T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13|
|Renegade T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13|
|Scaredy Cat T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13|
|Second Job T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Side Show T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b|
|Sleepy Hollow T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Suicidal Sydney T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c|
|Tilly's Trench T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a|
|Torcher T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Tribulations T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a|
|Type:||Trad, 145 ft|
|Page Views:||1,541 total, 16/month|
|Shared By:||Jay Harrison on Nov 23, 2009|
DescriptionThe technical crux is getting out of the niche, but many climbers feel more challenged by the tenuous friction of the opening slab.
P1: (V1)Climb the left side of the apron slab of the Isobuttress, past 2 bolts to a block with a casket-sized niche 4' above. Get up in the niche and then (V2) ascend via the crack on its left edge (V3) to a small ledge with an anchor in a perched spruce tree.
P2: Step left and climb a left-slanting crack to a ledge. Climb up the righthand crack on the face above this to a horizontal**, then make a tricky step right to gain a brushy vertical crack. Climb up this, then climb up and left along a good crack to the low-angle on an arête. Up this, move right for pro, then back left to reach a good ledge, with anchors on the left side of the face just below it.
P3: Climb the 10' high 5.6 face to the top (or rappel from the anchors).
The first pitch is very good; the second is mundane; a better finish traverses left to join Carpenter & Das for its upper pitch.
V1 5.10a: Start 10' left of the slab, using side pulls to dyno for a good jug, then rejoin the standard route.
V2 5.10d TR: Climb through overhang above the niche up the face right of the crack to a left-facing corner, then continue up to a horizontal rail and traverse left to the anchor.
V3 5.8: Climb the crack to the end of the flaring chimney part, then rail right to a left-facing corner before going up to a horizontal rail and traversing left to the anchor. This variation has become part of the route Outpatient.
- *There is an off-route bolt above this junction of cracks, a proposed "direct" finish pitch, which runs up the vertical crack and through the face above the bolt. I would like to see it continue up the outside corner right of Carpenter & Das' crack, but it would need another bolt. So far, this has defied all lead attempts. Have at it.