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Routes in Black Arches Wall

Adirondack Rehabilitation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Amnesia Chasm T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Amphitheatre Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Birthday Corner T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Black Arch ArĂȘte T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Broken Broom T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Carpenter & Das T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cranium T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Critical Crimps T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Crossway T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Dexter's Dugout T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Drive T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
E-stim T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Eatin' Tripe and Lichen It T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Four Ounces to Freedom S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Full Recovery T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Gun Show T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hang Time T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Here I Go Again T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Impulse Drive T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Intensive Care T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Lane Change T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Outpatient T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Parallel Passage T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pinch an Inch T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Plumb Line T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Post Op T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Recuperation Boulevard T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Reducto Adductor T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Renegade T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Scaredy Cat T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Second Job T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Side Show T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Sleepy Hollow T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Suicidal Sydney T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Tilly's Trench T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Torcher T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tribulations T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Type: Trad, TR, 105 ft
FA: July 2010
Page Views: 1,220 total · 13/month
Shared By: Jay Harrison on Aug 17, 2010
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


4 Opinions

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Description

Climb up the wide crack, move left to the narrow crack and climb it to its end, reaching right for good holds and pro; then back left and high (5.10a) for another good hold. Follow a crack up and right to a vertical crack. At good horizontal holds, traverse left 6', then go up into an inverted "V" notch overhang. Climb this via a left-slanting crack on the left side, then make a delicate (5.10a) mantle and up easy rock to anchors on the top of the buttress.
Good pro, several exciting moves, a bit pumpy.

Location

Start: same as Eatin' Tripe & Lichen It; on the buttress forming the right side of the Amphitheatre. Look for the obvious hand/fist crack of ET&LI; this route splits off to the left at the "Fang" flake above the OW/chimney.

Protection

One large cam (6"), doubles 1/2" to 1 1/4" cams and singles up to 3 1/2", and a full set of stoppers. Bolt anchors at top.

Photos

Jay Harrison  
 
Note: I broke off a hold while climbing this route after a cold/wet spell. Crane Mountain Gneiss behaves much like sandstone; the rock is much weaker when damp.
I believe losing this hold ups the ante a letter grade or two, as it is at the crux, which now requires a less-pleasant/positive hold to make the move from. Dec 18, 2017
proto
Falmouth (MA)
  5.10a
proto   Falmouth (MA)
  5.10a
Excellent route indeed.
As of today (11/12/17) the anchors at the top are missing one hanger so one has to rap from a single bolt. Oct 12, 2017
Jim Lawyer    
 
This is a totally under-appreciated route...lots of stars! You can avoid the wide start (and the need for wide gear) by climbing on the right of the offwidth, then stepping left across the top of it.

I've never seen anyone on it, and it seems to have escaped notice by those that climb the grade. Aug 4, 2015