Type: Trad, TR, 105 ft
FA: July 2010
Page Views: 1,337 total · 13/month
Shared By: Jay Harrison on Aug 17, 2010
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


5 Opinions

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Description

Climb up the wide crack, move left to the narrow crack and climb it to its end, reaching right for good holds and pro; then back left and high (5.10a) for another good hold. Follow a crack up and right to a vertical crack. At good horizontal holds, traverse left 6', then go up into an inverted "V" notch overhang. Climb this via a left-slanting crack on the left side, then make a delicate (5.10a) mantle and up easy rock to anchors on the top of the buttress.
Good pro, several exciting moves, a bit pumpy.

Location

Start: same as Eatin' Tripe & Lichen It; on the buttress forming the right side of the Amphitheatre. Look for the obvious hand/fist crack of ET&LI; this route splits off to the left at the "Fang" flake above the OW/chimney.

Protection

One large cam (6"), doubles 1/2" to 1 1/4" cams and singles up to 3 1/2", and a full set of stoppers. Bolt anchors at top.

Photos

Jim Lawyer    
 
This is a totally under-appreciated route...lots of stars! You can avoid the wide start (and the need for wide gear) by climbing on the right of the offwidth, then stepping left across the top of it.

I've never seen anyone on it, and it seems to have escaped notice by those that climb the grade. Aug 4, 2015
Jay Harrison
  5.10b
Jay Harrison  
  5.10b
Note: I broke off a hold while climbing this route after a cold/wet spell. Crane Mountain Gneiss behaves much like sandstone; the rock is much weaker when damp.
I believe losing this hold ups the ante a letter grade or two, as it is at the crux, which now requires a less-pleasant/positive hold to make the move from. Dec 18, 2017