Type: Trad, 130 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: October 2007
Page Views: 1,175 total · 10/month
Shared By: Jay Harrison on Oct 21, 2008
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


5 Opinions

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Description

Clever routefinding to circumvent a heinous OW start, a delightful bit of jamming through the crux, and an exhilirating overhang problem on the 2nd pitch.
This route has finally been cleaned up; now it's a classic line.

P1: Climb blocky notch, follow ramp out right, then hand-traverse back left to avoid the OW start (either way is 5.8). Climb the obvious handcrack rising right from the fangish OH to a hanging belay under the roof.

P2: Traverse left until you can reach a small right-facing flake on the lip of the overhang. A scary, committing haul-up gets you over the obstacle. Follow the flake to its top, then climb easy friction to the top of the buttress.

Location

Toward the left side of the Black Arch Arête, at a small mossy dirt cone leading up to a slanted ledge with an OW crack on its left end. There is a large, ugly "gully" with a few trees growing in it to the right, between this route and The Black Arch Arête.

Protection

Standard trad rack, a few extra big cams (#3 Camalot sz).

Photos

Jay Harrison
  5.8+
Jay Harrison  
  5.8+
This is much nicer, now that it is cleaned up. Still challenging; and one can choose to take the direct start up the wide crack that Torcher uses. Aug 23, 2010
Armed with neither route info or a large cam, I led this via a satisfying combination of both options at the start - I scampered up right and hand traversed left on the horizontal to get a good couple nuts in the crack as close to the OW as I could. Then I downclimbed to the base and climbed directly up the wide crack as a not-bad-at-all layback. Agree with the 8ish rating for this pitch. Sep 3, 2012
Jay Harrison
  5.8+
Jay Harrison  
  5.8+
The overhang near the start of P2 seems closer to 5.9 than 5.8. Mar 9, 2018