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Routes in Black Arches Wall
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Adirondack Rehabilitation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Amnesia Chasm T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Amphitheatre Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Birthday Corner T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Black Arch Arête T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Black Arches Wall | 8704 T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Broken Broom T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Carpenter & Das T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Cranium T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Critical Crimps T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Crossway T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Dexter's Dugout T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Drive T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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E-stim T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Eatin' Tripe and Lichen It T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Four Ounces to Freedom S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Full Recovery T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Gun Show T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Hang Time T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Here I Go Again T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Impulse Drive T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13 |
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Intensive Care T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Lane Change T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Outpatient T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Parallel Passage T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Pinch an Inch T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Plumb Line T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Post Op T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Recuperation Boulevard T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Reducto Adductor T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Renegade T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13 |
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Scaredy Cat T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Second Job T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Side Show T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Sleepy Hollow T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Tilly's Trench T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Torcher T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Tribulations T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
| Type: | Trad, 70 ft (21 m) |
| GPS: | 43.5431, -73.95414 |
| FA: | July 28, 2011 |
| Page Views: | 1,104 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Jay Harrison on Jul 31, 2011 |
| Admins: | Morgan Patterson, Kevin MudRat MacKenzie, Jim Lawyer |
Description
The crux is getting through the first 20'. Perhaps the hardest part is placing gear: though good pro is available, the stances are very strenuous.
The upper section consists of runout but mild 5.6 knob-hopping.
Pinch the rightmost crack's edge and pull up into a steep lieback. Bump to good knobs to the right, then make a tenuous pinch/jam/cling left (difficult but solid gear placement at this point). Step up onto a slabby niche, climb a right-rising crack to a horizontal, then climb straight up wonder-knobs, right of a rounded nose, to the ledge below the anchor.
NOTE: A lot of ice forms over the lip of the Birthday Corner early in the season. It falls from >30m up, landing among the base of all the Amphitheatre area routes. Even after the main winter's accumulation has fallen, nightly formations continue to bombard the area. Be watchful, wear a helmet, and if big ice is looming above on that crystalline spring morning, maybe climb somewhere else.
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