Avg: 2 from 1 vote
Routes in Black Arches Wall
|Adirondack Rehabilitation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R|
|Amnesia Chasm T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c|
|Amphitheatre Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Birthday Corner T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b|
|Black Arch Arête T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13|
|Broken Broom T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Carpenter & Das T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Cranium T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13|
|Critical Crimps T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Crossway T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Dexter's Dugout T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Drive T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|E-stim T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Eatin' Tripe and Lichen It T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Four Ounces to Freedom S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b|
|Full Recovery T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Gun Show T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Hang Time T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13|
|Here I Go Again T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Impulse Drive T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13|
|Intensive Care T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R|
|Lane Change T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Outpatient T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13|
|Parallel Passage T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Pinch an Inch T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R|
|Plumb Line T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Post Op T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Recuperation Boulevard T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Reducto Adductor T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13|
|Renegade T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13|
|Scaredy Cat T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13|
|Second Job T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Side Show T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b|
|Sleepy Hollow T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Suicidal Sydney T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c|
|Tilly's Trench T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a|
|Torcher T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Tribulations T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a|
|Type:||Trad, 140 ft, 2 pitches|
|Page Views:||54 total, 1/month|
|Shared By:||Jay Harrison on Nov 18, 2011|
DescriptionThe crux is moving out around the overhanging corner of the first pitch.
A good climb, tho the wet start detracts from the aesthetics, and the second pitch is much easier than the first.
There is now a pair of cold shuts at ~100', so you can do this route as a single pitch.
P1: Climb the face past the bolt, gaining the right-facing corner. Ascend this to its end, a small ledge. Reach right to the only hold on the face, climb up onto this, then move up and left to meet the overhanging, right-facing corner system right at the point it turns from being an overhang to being a corner. Step up the corner to a broken overhang, make a scary reach left (protect with a green C3) and move out around the corner. Climb steep face on the corner's edge to a narrow ledge.
P2: Climb up and slightly left, over a bulging wall, to low-angle face, then follow crack systems up to the top. An oak tree stands right in line with the route, but the spruce tree to climber's right has a webbing anchor on it as well.
NOTE: A lot of ice forms over the lip of the Birthday Corner early in the season. It falls from >30m up, landing among the base of all the Amphitheatre area routes. Even after the main winter's accumulation has fallen, nightly formations continue to bombard the area. Be watchful, wear a helmet, and if big ice is looming above on that crystalline spring morning, maybe climb somewhere else.
Location8' left of Amphitheatre Crack, at a series of blocky steps leading to a steep face under a right-facing corner which begins 10' above the uppermost block ledge.
The start is often wet.
Descent: there is a webbing anchor on a large spruce tree 20' climber's right of the topout of this route. Two rappels are required, using the anchors of Amphitheatre Crack for the second rappel.
There is a pair of cold shuts at ~100' now, so this route can be done as a single pitch.
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