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Routes in Black Arches Wall

Adirondack Rehabilitation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Amnesia Chasm T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Amphitheatre Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Birthday Corner T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Black Arch ArĂȘte T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Broken Broom T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Carpenter & Das T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cranium T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Critical Crimps T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Crossway T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Dexter's Dugout T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Drive T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
E-stim T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Eatin' Tripe and Lichen It T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Four Ounces to Freedom S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Full Recovery T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Gun Show T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hang Time T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Here I Go Again T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Impulse Drive T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Intensive Care T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Lane Change T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Outpatient T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Parallel Passage T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pinch an Inch T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Plumb Line T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Post Op T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Recuperation Boulevard T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Reducto Adductor T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Renegade T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Scaredy Cat T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Second Job T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Side Show T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Sleepy Hollow T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Suicidal Sydney T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Tilly's Trench T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Torcher T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tribulations T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Type: Trad, 140 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Summer 2011
Page Views: 54 total, 1/month
Shared By: Jay Harrison on Nov 18, 2011
Admins: Jim Lawyer

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Description

The crux is moving out around the overhanging corner of the first pitch.
A good climb, tho the wet start detracts from the aesthetics, and the second pitch is much easier than the first.
There is now a pair of cold shuts at ~100', so you can do this route as a single pitch.
P1: Climb the face past the bolt, gaining the right-facing corner. Ascend this to its end, a small ledge. Reach right to the only hold on the face, climb up onto this, then move up and left to meet the overhanging, right-facing corner system right at the point it turns from being an overhang to being a corner. Step up the corner to a broken overhang, make a scary reach left (protect with a green C3) and move out around the corner. Climb steep face on the corner's edge to a narrow ledge.
P2: Climb up and slightly left, over a bulging wall, to low-angle face, then follow crack systems up to the top. An oak tree stands right in line with the route, but the spruce tree to climber's right has a webbing anchor on it as well.

NOTE: A lot of ice forms over the lip of the Birthday Corner early in the season. It falls from >30m up, landing among the base of all the Amphitheatre area routes. Even after the main winter's accumulation has fallen, nightly formations continue to bombard the area. Be watchful, wear a helmet, and if big ice is looming above on that crystalline spring morning, maybe climb somewhere else.

Location

8' left of Amphitheatre Crack, at a series of blocky steps leading to a steep face under a right-facing corner which begins 10' above the uppermost block ledge.
The start is often wet.
Descent: there is a webbing anchor on a large spruce tree 20' climber's right of the topout of this route. Two rappels are required, using the anchors of Amphitheatre Crack for the second rappel.
There is a pair of cold shuts at ~100' now, so this route can be done as a single pitch.

Protection

Bring C3s or similar micro cams, and a standard rack to C4 Sz.3.
One bolt down low.
As of 2012, there is a pair of ss bolt anchors at 100'.

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