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Routes in Black Arches Wall

Adirondack Rehabilitation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Amnesia Chasm T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Amphitheatre Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Birthday Corner T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Black Arch Arête T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Broken Broom T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Carpenter & Das T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cranium T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Critical Crimps T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Crossway T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Dexter's Dugout T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Drive T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
E-stim T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Eatin' Tripe and Lichen It T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Four Ounces to Freedom S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Full Recovery T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Gun Show T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hang Time T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Here I Go Again T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Impulse Drive T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Intensive Care T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Lane Change T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Outpatient T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Parallel Passage T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pinch an Inch T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Plumb Line T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Post Op T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Recuperation Boulevard T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Reducto Adductor T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Renegade T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Scaredy Cat T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Second Job T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Side Show T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Sleepy Hollow T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Suicidal Sydney T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Tilly's Trench T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Torcher T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tribulations T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
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Type: Trad, 140 ft, 2 pitches
FA: July 2009
Page Views: 1,378 total · 13/month
Shared By: Jay Harrison on Nov 23, 2009
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


13 Opinions

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Description

While P1 is infrequently climbed (it is often wet), P2 includes the best climbing on the Isobuttress. Most climbers traverse onto P2 after ascending routes such as Recuperation Bvd or Full Recovery.

P1 5.7 45': (V1)Climb to the ledge, walk left to its end and angle up to a crack leading up and right. Follow it (often climbing between two wet spots) to its end at a horizontal crack, and continue up to a large, sloping ledge below an overhanging flake.

P2: 5.8 85': (V2, V3) At the left end of the overhang, climb up the crack (strenuous 5.8) or the flake to its right, or both, then continue up the crack to its end at a horizontal and step left to a small alcove/ledge. Climb the corner (or zigzag up a right-rising ramp) to a ramp leading up left to a vertical crack below a triangular overhang. Take this crack and climb straight through the overhang (crux)(V4), up the arête to a large ledge.

P3: Climb the 10' face (5.6) to the top. Alternatively: two rappels, starting from the 2-bolt anchor at the top of P2.

V1: If the first pitch is too wet, a good alternative is the first pitch of Recuperation Bvd. Alternatively, one can climb the slab left of the drainage, crossing back along another slab to reach the first belay ledge on relatively easy 5.4ish friction.
V2 5.3: To avoid the strenuous crack start of P2, walk right, climb up the easy block and walk back left to rejoin the crack.
V3 5.7+: One can also walk farther left, climb a short way up a manky notch, and hand-traverse right to join the regular route.
V4 5.5: One can avoid the overhang by traversing right and around it, then back onto the arête.

Though the bottom pitch squeezes between wet spots - and in damp weather may be completely soaked - the moves along it are wonderful fun.
P2 is not to be missed.

Location

Near the center of the Isobuttress, about 15' right of a wet gully, where a 2' high rock lies against the cliff, below a ledge 8' up.

Protection

Modern trad rack. There is a 2-bolt anchor at the top of P2.

Photos

Jay Harrison
  5.8
Jay Harrison  
  5.8
Please note I've upgraded the rating, after listening to other ascenders' comments and leading it again myself. I think the overhang goes at 5.8; though this should deter no one, as the variation workaround is ~5.4. Nov 23, 2009
Kevin Heckeler
Las Vegas, NV
  5.7+
Kevin Heckeler   Las Vegas, NV
  5.7+
P1 - first half is kinda wet, but it serves its purpose to get you to the second half of this pitch where the climbing is highly technical and VERY fun.

P2 - some great climbing and unexpected features. The roof at the top is stiff 5.7+ (Jay said 5.9???). There's a way around it right. I wasn't leading so maybe it feels more like a 5.9 on the sharp end. This pitch can also be linked up from Recuperation Blvd, also a 5.7 Jul 12, 2010
Jaysen Henderson
Brooklyn NY
 
Jaysen Henderson   Brooklyn NY
 
the roof section is definentally 5.8 based on someone with no beta. Jan 7, 2011
Kevin Heckeler
Las Vegas, NV
  5.7+
Kevin Heckeler   Las Vegas, NV
  5.7+
Led both pitches and overhang today. Overhang is easier for people with a long reach (like me, 6' 3").

This is a really great multipitch climb. Note that a 70m does not reach the ground from the top rap rings, so use/bring double ropes or expect two raps.

Pitch 1 has questionable gear behind a fragile flake. Nov 14, 2011
Nick W
Orford, NH
Nick W   Orford, NH
Can this be done in 1 pitch with long slings? Nov 20, 2011
Tparis
Pottersville,New York
 
Tparis   Pottersville,New York
 
Nick, You could do it all in a single pitch in theory. We were on it today and the bottom pitch looked as dry as it has all season (that will change tonight). But why do that when you can do the first pitch of Recuperation blvd (super fun) instead and then traverse over to do the second pitch of C&D. Nov 22, 2011
Kevin Heckeler
Las Vegas, NV
  5.7+
Kevin Heckeler   Las Vegas, NV
  5.7+
There is also a new linkup variation using pitch 1 of "Full Recovery", which starts and climbs just right of E-stim, traverses along the ledge to the rap tree above Recuperation Blvd, then moves left from there and climbs Pitch 2 of Carp&Das. This is my new favorite way to climb the Isobuttress. Sep 26, 2012

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