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Routes in Black Arches Wall

Adirondack Rehabilitation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Amnesia Chasm T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Amphitheatre Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Birthday Corner T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Black Arch Arête T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Broken Broom T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Carpenter & Das T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cranium T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Critical Crimps T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Crossway T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Dexter's Dugout T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Drive T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
E-stim T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Eatin' Tripe and Lichen It T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Four Ounces to Freedom S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Full Recovery T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Gun Show T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hang Time T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Here I Go Again T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Impulse Drive T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Intensive Care T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Lane Change T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Outpatient T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Parallel Passage T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pinch an Inch T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Plumb Line T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Post Op T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Recuperation Boulevard T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Reducto Adductor T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Renegade T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Scaredy Cat T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Second Job T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Side Show T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Sleepy Hollow T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Suicidal Sydney T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Tilly's Trench T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Torcher T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tribulations T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Type: Trad, 120 ft, Grade II
FA: October 2008
Page Views: 2,076 total, 19/month
Shared By: Jay Harrison on Oct 21, 2008
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


18 Opinions

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Description

Gorgeous dihedral to an improbable-looking outside corner, with a delicate crux move near the top.
Climb the dihedral about 50', stem out right onto the arête and climb up, passing two bolts, to the overhang. Ascend up the nose, step left to a hidden crack, then climb a short slab above, and either use the bolt anchor (70m rope required!), or climb through another (easier) overhang onto a large ledge.

Location

At the shallow "cave" leading to a dihedral with a wide hand crack in it, near the outside corner of the main buttress.
Reach the cave via a short scramble up a chimney on to below & left of the route.

Protection

Full set of cams, an extra #2 & #3 Camalot. Leapfrog the large cams and consider taking a #2 up to protect the crux.
Note that the crux is well protected, but the pro is well beneath your feet before finishing the difficulties. The fall looks to be clean.
Lukasz Czyz  
 
How can I give it five stars? Super good! Aug 26, 2013
kenr
 
kenr  
 
Great variety of moves in a great space (on top-rope).
Adding to the variety is the short "Adirondack obligatory awkward" chimney start. Aug 7, 2012
Will Roth
Saranac Lake, NY
Will Roth   Saranac Lake, NY
Epic route! The crux move is a good ways above your gear. You can get one or more solid cams, around .75 BD, in the horizontal before going for the crux. I don't think that anyone has taken the whip here yet...I sure came close. It would be big! May 17, 2012
Nick Weinberg
Lyme, NH
Nick Weinberg   Lyme, NH
Super good is right.

I led this the other day. I was expecting it to be a horror show, but it's really not. You can load up the crack with gear, and the crux is really not that far above. Also, the climbing above it is really not that difficult compared to many 5.10b's in the park. Don't let all the comments scare you!

As a funny aside, as I placed a cam in the crux horizontal next to a rock lodged in there, the rock suddenly lept out. A huge toad launched by my face, catching enormous airtime, landing on it's back way below. I was sure it was dead, but when I went to check up on it, it hopped into the woods without any apparent issue. Nov 11, 2011
Jim Lawyer    
 
Wow, what a varied line! -- a handcrack, then an arete, and finally and steep crimpy face. Can lower with a 70m rope. Super good! Aug 15, 2010