Type: Trad, 120 ft, Grade II
FA: October 2008
Page Views: 2,243 total · 18/month
Shared By: Jay Harrison on Oct 21, 2008
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


17 Opinions

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Description

Gorgeous dihedral to an improbable-looking outside corner, with a delicate crux move near the top.
Climb the dihedral about 50', stem out right onto the arête and climb up, passing two bolts, to the overhang. Ascend up the nose, step left to a hidden crack, then climb a short slab above, and either use the bolt anchor (70m rope required!), or climb through another (easier) overhang onto a large ledge.

Location

At the shallow "cave" leading to a dihedral with a wide hand crack in it, near the outside corner of the main buttress.
Reach the cave via a short scramble up a chimney on to below & left of the route.

Protection

Full set of cams, an extra #2 & #3 Camalot. Leapfrog the large cams and consider taking a #2 up to protect the crux.
Note that the crux is well protected, but the pro is well beneath your feet before finishing the difficulties. The fall looks to be clean.

Photos

Jim Lawyer    
 
Wow, what a varied line! -- a handcrack, then an arete, and finally and steep crimpy face. Can lower with a 70m rope. Super good! Aug 15, 2010
Nick W
Orford, NH
Nick W   Orford, NH
Super good is right.

I led this the other day. I was expecting it to be a horror show, but it's really not. You can load up the crack with gear, and the crux is really not that far above. Also, the climbing above it is really not that difficult compared to many 5.10b's in the park. Don't let all the comments scare you!

As a funny aside, as I placed a cam in the crux horizontal next to a rock lodged in there, the rock suddenly lept out. A huge toad launched by my face, catching enormous airtime, landing on it's back way below. I was sure it was dead, but when I went to check up on it, it hopped into the woods without any apparent issue. Nov 11, 2011
Will Roth
Saranac Lake, NY
Will Roth   Saranac Lake, NY
Epic route! The crux move is a good ways above your gear. You can get one or more solid cams, around .75 BD, in the horizontal before going for the crux. I don't think that anyone has taken the whip here yet...I sure came close. It would be big! May 17, 2012
kenr
 
kenr  
 
Great variety of moves in a great space (on top-rope).
Adding to the variety is the short "Adirondack obligatory awkward" chimney start. Aug 7, 2012
Lukasz Czyz  
 
How can I give it five stars? Super good! Aug 26, 2013
aparnas
 
aparnas  
 
Action packed! ...Might be just a tad soft for 5.10b, but it sure keeps your attention all the way up! Sep 23, 2018