Type: Trad, 125 ft
FA: August 27, 2009
Page Views: 3,226 total · 29/month
Shared By: Jay Harrison on Aug 31, 2009
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


21 Opinions

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Description

Climb the slab to the short, steep headwall. Pull this toward the right side (bolt-protected crux), then ascend low-angle rock to the steeper face above. Up this via delicate knobs to the large horizontal under the overhang.
Pull overhang and step right into the "Attic" where you can use the anchors to belay, or continue upward through the notch left of the roof to the top (original ascent, but the anchors are more convenient).

Location

Low point of the cliff. This can be accessed via a scramble downward from near Eatin' Tripe and Lichen It, or by rappeling off the "Patio".

Protection

Mixture of cams and quickdraws.

Photos

Jim Lawyer    
 
Stellar line, 5 stars for sure. You can lower with a 70m rope from the "Attic". Aug 15, 2010
Jon Clark
Philadelphia, PA
  5.10b
Jon Clark   Philadelphia, PA
  5.10b
You can lower with a 60m. Make sure the second is tied in. Some simul scrambling is necessary. Aug 23, 2011
Nick W
Orford, NH
Nick W   Orford, NH
Excellent climb. Tricky technical move down low, followed by beautiful face climbing and a small roof up high. Nov 11, 2011
Kevin Heckeler
Las Vegas, NV
 
Kevin Heckeler   Las Vegas, NV
 
One of the best face climbs I've ever climbed. Can traverse in from Second Job if bouldery starts aint your thing. Sep 3, 2012
Benjaminadk
San Pedro, California
  5.10a
Benjaminadk   San Pedro, California
  5.10a
Awesome must do five star yes yes. one the best lines ive ever climbed in my short career. Sep 10, 2012
Lukasz Czyz  
 
Broken hold just before top out definitely makes this climb even better without changing grade, well protected second crux. Awesome! Aug 26, 2013
Shane Kenyon
Canandaigua (city), NY
 
Shane Kenyon   Canandaigua (city), NY
 
The jugs on the overhang are just great. You can confidently swing into the Attic 100' off the deck as a nice reward after the delicate face climbing below. Nice Gunks feel (albeit with a MUCH longer approach - haha). Aug 13, 2018