Type: Sport, 35 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,539 total · 39/month
Shared By: Joseph Lascurain on Dec 27, 2011
Admins: Marc Kajut, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


7 Opinions

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Access Issue: Current San Diego County Advisories Details

Description

This climb uses a variety of powerful sloping side pulls, a few crimps and pinches. The technical crux is probably between bolts 2-4, but keeping it together until you reach the great jugs after the 5th bolt isn't easy.

Location

Obvious sport route just right of The Thumb Aid Climb.

Protection

5 bolts to fixed anchor. Helps with drag to sling out anchor. Can be top roped by climbing the backside.

Photos

Neal Harder
San Diego
  5.12c
Neal Harder   San Diego
  5.12c
If top-roping I recommend clipping the climber's rope to the last bolt to keep it from sliding over an edge when the climber falls, or use very long slings to extend the anchor point past the edge.
While this climb is relatively short, it is powerful and has no rests- it is full value. The crux is at the 4th bolt but all the moves leading up to it will tax you.
The SMC hangers on the lead bolts are the newer stainless steel ones, not the ones that have a reputation for breaking. Dec 3, 2014