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Routes in Main Wall

Absorbine Junior TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Blocks Direct, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Blocks, The T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Buckwheat S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Caterpillar T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cave Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chicken fart T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cornered TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Crack of Dust T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Empathy S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Escapade (aka One Step Beyond) S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Exit Stage Left T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Exit Stage Right / The L Word T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
False Mission Gorge Traverse. 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a V0 4
Fingerrip T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gallwas Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
General Dynamics T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Handyman T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hangman's Climb S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hidden Wall TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Intrinsic Value TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Knob Job TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Knob Job Bypass T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a V0 4
Laundry Chute T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Left Overture TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lilley's Delight T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mariah T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Master of Defeet S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Mickey Finn S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Misbegotten C3+
Mission Gorge Traverse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mission Impossible S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Never Intended S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Nutcracker T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Obverse from the Gap S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Owl, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Perception of Buzzy Fuzzy Pelt, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Prime Directive T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Quack of Ducks T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Quantum Leap S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rectum Roof T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rock On T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rock On Right S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sierra Club Chimney T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Suzie's Wild Ride S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Sympathy T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Thumb Aid Climb, The C2
Thumb, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Trapeze T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Unnatural Act TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Wallflower TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Wasp, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 35 ft
FA: Unknown, late 1980s
Page Views: 807 total, 11/month
Shared By: T.J. Esposito on Sep 12, 2011
Admins: Marc Kajut, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Current San Diego County Advisories Details

Description

Start on the "Rock On" crack/dihedral; pull onto the block and the first bolt is a little reach to climber's right from there. Move right and up beyond the bolt and if you have a super wingspan like I do you can clip the second bolt from comfort. Then do some fun moves pulling on juggy blocks and slippery feet to clip the third bolt. Few more fun moves and scurry up a slab to the anchors.

The start and belay are in breezy shade later in the afternoon.

Location

Main Wall, Far Left (Photo 1, route 9 in the Messier guide). To the left above the north climbers trail, shares a start with Rock On.

Protection

One or two green (0.75) C4s for the start, then three (four?) bolts. There are rap rings on the wall behind the anchors (you'll be space rapping into "The Chimney").

Photos

T.J. Esposito
San Diego, CA
 
T.J. Esposito   San Diego, CA
 
Bah so apparently first time around I went too high before going right, so I missed the meat of this climb. Clip the first bolt and start moving pretty much hard-right. The sequence is very particular and involves a lot of swapping of both hands and feet to stay balanced and avoid barn-dooring while moving around the rounded corner. Jun 18, 2012