Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Mike Stewart and Tim Burke 1971
Page Views: 2,343 total · 16/month
Shared By: mschlocker on Aug 26, 2006
Admins: Marc Kajut, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


26 Opinions

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Access Issue: Current San Diego County Advisories Details

Description

Crack starts thin and gets wider. Very slippery rock the whole way up the right facing dihedral. At the top a small traverse right is needed to gain the chimney which is shared with The Gallwas Crack. The word that best describes this route is "athletic". It will literally take your breath away.

Location

Main wall, starts up on a ledge near the top of the left climbers' loop trail. Starts on the right side of this ledge, left of The Gallwas Crack.

Protection

Small to possibly large (for the middle third).

Photos

Jesse Davidson
san diego, ca
 
Jesse Davidson   san diego, ca
 
guano...
hate May 4, 2008
GregH
San Diego, CA
 
GregH   San Diego, CA
 
this route is covered in s@#$ not fun Feb 21, 2009
Graham Roff
  5.10a
Graham Roff  
  5.10a
Quite sustained and seemed sandbagged at 5.9. But it could have been all the bird crap greasing up the jams and my lungs I guess. Mar 1, 2009
Kyle Wills
Chicago, IL
 
Kyle Wills   Chicago, IL
 
Oh cmon, everyone use to get dirty as a kid and probably thought it was the cat's pajamas' at the time. I just climbed through the dirt, guano and most particularly difficult, the green algae slime that coated Gallwas Crack. At first I was like, oh I can't do this its dirty, but I was there they were the climbs I wanted to knock out, and turns out I had a blast. Nutcracker and Gallwas are probably my two favorite climbs in the park as it stands. Can't wait to give them a run towards the summer when it dries out a bit, and maybe my traffic alone will reduce the dirt and dust. Mar 21, 2010
T.J. Esposito
San Diego, CA
T.J. Esposito   San Diego, CA
As posted on the MG Traverse comments section-

I was following the MG Traverse today and one of the three bird littered blocks at the top of Nutcracker, the nice one you can hug, broke free while i was hugging it (probably about the size of my upper torso or so?). Thankfully it wasn't while climbing Nutcracker, it would have been a horrible fall and incredibly dangerous (likely deadly if hit head-on) for the belayer.

Careful with the sheltered bird-harboring rocks at MG! Jun 12, 2011
ron amick
poway, ca
  5.9
ron amick   poway, ca
  5.9
classic gorge 5.9. you can avoid the guano if you watch what youre doing Jan 7, 2012
Cody O
San Diego
Cody O   San Diego
Currently has a swallow nest in the crack near the start, just a heads up. Jun 21, 2013