Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Jerry Gallwas
Page Views: 3,975 total · 26/month
Shared By: mschlocker on Aug 26, 2006
Admins: Marc Kajut, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


44 Opinions

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Access Issue: Current San Diego County Advisories Details

Description

Left facing dihedral on the main wall. Thin fingers start (can be avoided to right) leads to a classic dihedral finger - hand crack. This crack leads up slippery stone to a chimney. The chimney adds a different element to top off a long (for The Gorge) section of jamming and stemming.

Location

Main wall, starts up on a ledge near the top of the left climbers' loop trail. Starts on the right side of this ledge.

Protection

Mostly smallish gear. Nuts or cams will do. Stuff in the grey alien range (.4 camalot?) is good. Biggest piece I remember using was #2 camalot. Even the chimney doesn't require wide gear.

Photos

mschlocker
San Diego, CA
  5.9
mschlocker   San Diego, CA
  5.9
Good training for The Vampire, Bat Crack +Direct Start. Just imagine it's right facing and a little steeper and more continous. Sep 21, 2009
AlexK
 
AlexK  
 
A committing, but fun route. The crux is about halfway before the ledge where the feet get slippy. Jan 21, 2012
Wes D
Brevard, NC by way of CA
 
Wes D   Brevard, NC by way of CA
 
Perhaps this should get an extra star for being in the shade at noon in August. This climb is more interesting than it looks and boasts some slippery stemming and various forms of hand jamming. The best placements seem to be cams from BD Green on down. This climb pairs well with Mariah and the Nutcracker. Aug 8, 2013