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Routes in Main Wall

Absorbine Junior TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Blocks Direct, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Blocks, The T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Buckwheat S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Caterpillar T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cave Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chicken fart T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cornered TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Crack of Dust T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Empathy S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Escapade (aka One Step Beyond) S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Exit Stage Left T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Exit Stage Right / The L Word T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
False Mission Gorge Traverse. 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a V0 4
Fingerrip T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gallwas Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
General Dynamics T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Handyman T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hangman's Climb S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hidden Wall TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Intrinsic Value TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Knob Job TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Knob Job Bypass T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a V0 4
Laundry Chute T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Left Overture TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lilley's Delight T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mariah T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Master of Defeet S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Mickey Finn S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Misbegotten C3+
Mission Gorge Traverse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mission Impossible S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Never Intended S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Nutcracker T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Obverse from the Gap S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Owl, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Perception of Buzzy Fuzzy Pelt, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Prime Directive T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Quack of Ducks T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Quantum Leap S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rectum Roof T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rock On T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rock On Right S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sierra Club Chimney T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Suzie's Wild Ride S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Sympathy T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Thumb Aid Climb, The C2
Thumb, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Trapeze T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Unnatural Act TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Wallflower TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Wasp, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Sport, TR, 40 ft
FA: Steve McKinney, Milo Pradonovitch
Page Views: 6,526 total, 45/month
Shared By: Marc Kajut on Jan 27, 2006
Admins: Marc Kajut, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Current San Diego County Advisories Details

Description

The difficult portion of this climb is right at the start between the 1st and 2nd bolts with some interesting footwork. The climb follows a ramp up and right, then traverses back to the left to a V slot.

Protection

Five (5) bolt protection. Two bolt anchor.

Photos

alex carey
  5.9+ PG13
alex carey  
  5.9+ PG13
all of the bolts looked good as of 4/1/17, however for some people not comfortable at the grade, the bolts were a little spaced out and due to the nature of it being a wandering route its a little worrisome what a fall at the wrong spot would do to the climber. Apr 2, 2017
Andrew Nelson  
5.10-
Definitely a hard start! Chills out quite a bit after the first two bolts. Jul 6, 2014
One of the anchor bolt is spinning and rusty. Mar 31, 2014
Industrialwrench
El Cajon, Ca
  5.9+ PG13
Industrialwrench   El Cajon, Ca
  5.9+ PG13
Tightened first bolt. Successful onsite lead. Felt like a deck potential clipping the third bolt. I didn't see where the original 3rd bolt was...must have been nasty. Oct 17, 2012
The first bolt on this route is loose. 2012-06-15. Jun 16, 2012
jeffblankman
San Diego, Ca
  5.10a
jeffblankman   San Diego, Ca
  5.10a
Haven't finished this one free, yet. The start is a bit scary. 1st bolt almost useless for safety. The second bolt is a tad high and at the crux of the climb. Jan 21, 2012
johnnydanger
California
5.10a
johnnydanger   California
5.10a
It was a hard start for me being 5'7. I was able to follow the rail to the right and up into the larger holds and to the ledge for a quick break. After that it was smooth sailing to complete the onsight. Pretty stoked and a fun climb. 5.10 moves at the bottom are what make the climb! May 8, 2011
MAR
  5.10a
MAR  
  5.10a
Great Climb! The start moves on this may be 10a-ish if you are under 5.5. All finishing variations on this climb are good, but if you are going to set up a top rope it may be easiest to head straight up to the Obverse the Gap anchors past the last bolt. This, with a directional on the second bolt, makes for an awesome(low swing) TR. Enjoy! Apr 11, 2011
Fun route. The third bolt has been moved to a location that negates the necessity of supplemental gear on this route. The old SDCC guide mentioned a #4 TCU being necessary. The placement is still there if you want it, but the route is not runout or dangerous without it. Apr 4, 2006